Partners in creativity

Over the years, Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla have helped revive traditional craftsmanship in a significant way. T. KRITHIKAREDDY talks to the ace designers.

IN THE quicksands of fashion where career graphs fluctuate every season, Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla's has been one of the few steady success stories. Good is an understatement, for it couldn't have been better for the designer duo, who started off as freelancers 15 years ago. Today, they criss-cross the globe dressing the likes of Dame Judi Dench (remember her beaded Dhaka dress at the 1999 Oscars), Sophie Marceau (of "The World Is Not Enough" fame) and Lindy Hemming (Academy Award winning Hollywood costume designer).

In a world of plasticine, the ace designers come across as down- right naturals during a chat amidst the delightful clutter of objets d' art at Apparao Galleries. The two who seldom visit the South, were here on a two-day stop-over enroute to Tirupati. In white shirt and formal trousers, they could pass off as any of those burly businessmen from Mumbai. But during the course of the conversation, you realise that it is their refined tastes and inventive flair that make them the toast of celebrity columns of coffee-table glossies. From their abiding fashion passion to the latest move to ban Fashion TV, they discuss all...no holds barred.

Their backgrounds are different - Abu grew up in cosmopolitan Mumbai, while Sandeep is from Punjab. But thanks to a chance meeting at a friend's place in 1986, their uneventful life took a dramatic turn. "Our wavelengths and tastes merged..." Abu-Sandeep reminisce. After some "freelancing and ghost designing", they became part of an upmarket boutique in Mumbai. Mata Hari-Abu Jani/Sandeep Khosla - their first collection in pure fabrics with awesome embroidery and bead work was an instant hit. A year later, Tarun Tahliani invited them to join Ensemble. "With Rs. 50,000 each, it was a do-or-die situation. We were either going to make it or break it." But life certainly steamrolled ahead after the sell-out Ensemble show (1987)in which the crushed dupatta emerged as a refreshing fashion statement. Abu-Sandeep had arrived. And the milestones on fashion highway eventually led them to the opening of their exclusive boutiques in Mumbai and Delhi.

At a time when fashion's enfant terribles are rolling out titillating trends with shimmering bikini blouses and micro minis, the self-taught designers have turned to ethnic styles. "Westward ho..." is for the young who get swayed by the wild gyrations in fashion, they say. "Conventional styles and craftsmanship are classic...evergreen, they will not be swept away by the winds of change. Why let them languish?" So the two revisited the past and brought fresh life to traditional embroidery and embellishments.

Each line is a celebration of ethnic craftsmanship. When chikan was fading into oblivion because of unimaginative stitches and motifs in the late 1980s, the style gurus had the vision to use it in formal evening wear. "We wanted women to appreciate chikan...and look good by teaming it with jadao and kundan jewellery. So we elevated the craft with specialised stitches and working on taboo fabrics for chikan such as chiffons."

After chikan, it was time to look back at zardosi. Exquisite silver and gold zardosi, badla, ari, mukaish, karchobi....were all revived with a bang in rich textures. Views from the past transformed into visions of the future. "Take the mirror work range for instance. Usually, roughly cut mirrors are stitched with multi-coloured thread to form gypsy patterns. We refined the art with delicate vintage detailing of gold zardosi embroidery. Kasab, nakshi, saadi and kanani were also used."

Over the years, the trousseau has become Abu-Sandeep's forte. "Actually, we are now moving away from it," they confess gingerly. "Though creatively challenging - you have to think fresh for every bride, designing for trousseau involves meticulous planning and is time-consuming. For the bridalwear for instance, we have to consider everything from venue, decor, time of the day, jewellery, colour preference etc."

Coming to their design philosophy, the designers assert that it is "Indian in spirit. Indian to match Indian sensibilities, not Western. The clothes we create must first appeal to our senses. And above all, the designs must make an impact."

Obviously unhappy about the recent move to ban FTV in the country, they say, "By making it an issue, we are only publicising the channel. There are so many channels that beam objectionable programmes. It is difficult to keep tabs on them."

The two have been partners in creativity for 15 years. How has it been working together? "We draw inspiration from each other. Besides, we are competent and uncompromising when it comes to quality and design. So our partnership has been hassle-free."

Abu-Sandeep have done much in terms of fostering traditional craftsmanship. So they decided to record their work in a superbly brought out book "A Celebration of Style", which is in many ways "autobigraphical." Their experiences in couture - the challenges and disappointments, are candidly presented with artistically shot visuals in the glossy (text by Sharada Dwivedi). The varied lines (take a look at the breathtaking white-on-white and chikan. They broke the mindset that white was an "inauspicious colour"), celebrity quotes etc make the book compelling. And what about their other passions? "Oh, we love collecting beautiful things. We have been doing it for so many years now", they say in unison and laugh when asked if their homes are a virtual museum. This "parallel passion" however led to the two making forays into the realm of interior designing. If it is understated chic in fashion, it is style with drama when it comes to decor and furniture.

That's not all. "Abu-Sandeep" is gradually emerging as a global label with outlets and ramp shows showcasing its works overseas. "Yes...we are serious about going global" they say. And true, "The Boys" (as they were called) have certainly come of age.

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