When a legacy comes alive

COME SUMMER and the heat practically seems turned on, in full force, in Chennai. 'Pandals' mushroom everywhere, especially in front of big temples. It is the Tamil month of 'chithirai' - celebration time for the Gods. The Meenakshi kalyanam is performed in Madurai and the 'Aruvathimoovar' and 'Theppam' at the Kapaleeswarar temple, Mylapore.

The 63 saints are taken ceremoniously through the streets, numerous devotees following enthusiastically in procession. A carnival atmosphere is created and the pavements are transformed into colourful shops. Toys, household goods, palmyrah leaf fans, clay pots and jars, glassware and trinkets...there is a variety fare for shoppers.

The 'narikuravars' with their bright display of beads and unique craftsmanship add to the vibrance and gaiety.

This is a common scene in Mylapore at that time of the year. A special feature is the opening of the 'Chithirai chathram', in South Mada Street, to the public.

This is an old building, which was owned by the late Vinayaka Mudaliar, a wealthy philanthropist, with a taste for rare paintings and artefacts.

For a month, the building comes to life with each of the precious objets d'art spruced up for display. The facade of the structure is dressed up. Cherubs, antique cutwork pieces in wood and gleaming glass lamps adorn the walls and ceiling.

The majestic hall is festooned with lights and chandeliers. Many an old-timer will recognise the 'rasagundu' - delicate, brilliantly-coloured, glass balls. These 'rasagundus' are today much-sought after by foreigners, as Christmas decorations. There are other such treasures too - exquisite paintings, dolls that were once part of the 'kolu' display during Navarathri, curios painstakingly crafted with beads and even a scene around a temple tank.

Rare Thanjavur paintings depicting scenes from the life of Lord Krishna and Saivite folklore attract connoisseurs of the fine arts. An entire wall is devoted to scenes of the Aruvathimoovar. The muted colours, tastefully embellished with touches of gold lend grace and grandeur to the interior.

There are more treats in store... A corner of the room is filled with dolls.

Paintings of legends from Saivite lore hang with a casual grace on the walls of the verandah - each a veritable fortune in itself.

Entrance is free, in keeping with the owner's philosophy. The trust which maintains the building and its invaluable artefacts, also provides funds to needy members of the Vellala community.

It is refreshing to see so much of the old still surviving in a city which is on the fast track to modernisation. For, with a flourishing trade in antiques, the best has long since found its way to the West. Unfortunately, this house of treasures is open to visitors only once a year, making it a much-anticipated treat for art lovers.

RUPA GOPAL

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