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Himalayan treasure trove

It's the only place in the world that possesses a temple with a living goddess in residence. Apart from this ancient tradition, Nepal has glitzy offerings too, says Preeti Mehra.

Nepal, the kingdom in the Himalayas, occupies only 0.1 per cent of the earth. But you can find 99 per cent of what you want on a holiday in this astonishing land. Wish for the mountains, peace and quiet -- it's there for the asking. Opt for adventure -- rock climbing, trekking, whitewater rafting, mountain biking, even ballooning -- you don't have to look too far. Prefer the city crowds, late night casinos and plush shopping plazas -- all at an arm's distance if you stick to the capital, Kathmandu. And in case the gastronomical experience tops your list, there is a tremendous variety -- from Japanese, Korean, Thai, French, Italian and Chinese cuisine down to the local Nepalese and Tibetan.

Nepal is a synthesis of the old and the new. While it sports modern conveniences for the international tourist, it also offers you nature in the raw. It's mind-boggling heritage sites and rich culture offer the keen visitor a unique tapestry of hist ory.

A country comprising 22 million people, it is made up of several races and ethnic groups. Each group has roots in a different region with a dialect and tradition peculiar to it. The Gurungs and the Magars inhabit the western region. The Rais, Li mbus and Sunwars live in the valleys of the eastern mid-hills. The Terai region is occupied by the Yadavas, Satars, Rajvanshis and Dhimals. The Brahmins, Chhetris and Thakuris are spread all over the valley, while the Newars, an important ethnic group, are largely based in the Kathmandu valley.

Kathmandu is the first stop for most tourists. Apart from the city centre itself with hotels for every budget, it comprises three splendid cities -- Patan, Bhaktapur and Kathmandu itself. Here the aesthetically-built wooden temples, the in tricately carved stones and versatile museums bring alive the ancient history of the Newar civilisation.

A must on the itinerary of most Indian visitors is the Pashupatinath Temple, 5 km east of Kathmandu and devoted to Lord Shiva. It's two-tiered gold roof and delicately engraved silver door makes it stand apart from the rest. And true to Hindu culture, the large sculpture of the Nandi within the temple premises makes it a venue for cow worship as well. The early morning `aarti' at the temple brings in thousands of visitors who offer flowers, rudraksha malas and prasadam to Lord Shiva.

Nepal, perhaps, is the only country in the world that has a temple with a living goddess residing in it. Believed to be the incarnation of Parvati, the living goddess is a young virgin chosen from the Newar community who reside in the vicini ty of the Hanuman Dhoka Palace.

Dressed in traditional goddess attire, she occasionally acknowledges greetings from her balcony window. While foreigners are not allowed within her residence, she grants audiences to the local population. According to tradition, she is sent ba ck to her home after she attains puberty and another girl child is chosen in her place. However, with superstition rampant, she can rarely settle down to a normal family life.

Patan too houses ancient Hindu temples and Buddhist monuments. During a stroll down the Patan Durbar Square, the most noticeable feature were the carved wooden windows adorning monuments and local houses.

Patan, like all the other sightseeing spots, has rows and rows of wayside shops offering traditional craft items such as masks, beads, puppets, pipes and figurines made of bone. These make ideal souvenirs to take home. Tibetan tankas, prayer wheels, little Buddhas, Shivas and Ganeshas are also available.

At night Kathmandu transforms into a jazzy experience. The roulette and the betting machines at the brightly lit casinos are a great attraction for tourists. With one attached to every large hotel, Indians betting large sums of money late into the morning hours is a common sight.

Leave Kathmandu and the Nepal experience changes colour. With a large number of private airlines in operation, in just half-an-hour you could be in the lap of untouched nature. Pokhara is one such splendid destination. A valley situated 900 metre s above sea-level, it's surrounded by the mighty Annapurna mountain range.

Pokhara has both the mountains and the water bodies. So it's possible to set yourself in a rooftop restaurant and watch the sun setting majestically into the clouds. An early morning taxi ride and a walk up Sarankot hill to watch the sun rise through the snow-topped ranges seems popular with Indian tourists. However, keep yourself free for two or three trips for the rain in these parts is unpredictable and could wipe out your sunrise plans.

For those who want to soothe their city-frayed nerves, a canoe down the placid waters of the Phewa lake is highly recommended. And if you have a boatman as wise as Govinda (who we had), you'll learn more about Nepal in a single boating trip than a week of researching the topic.

Pokhara is also the starting point for a thousand treks. You could do an arduous three-week Annapurna Circuit trek or a shorter trek lasting 2-3 days. There are no dearth of trekking agencies that help you plan it out. But if you don't have the time for either, a spectacular mountain flight could take you to a height of 19,500 ft. from where you can have a dekko at the amazing topography.

Nepal has a lot more to offer. It's 14 national parks and wildlife reserves, most located in the Terai region, attract visitors from all over the world. The Royal Chitwan National Park is the most popular. Here you can explore the jungle on foot, on elephant back, in a local bull cart or canoe or in a Landrover. And the flora and fauna seen here is phenomenal. An interesting tid-bit -- Nepal houses 2 per cent of the world's flowering plants, 8 per cent of the world's species of b irds, 4 per cent of the mammals on earth, 600 indigenous plant families and 11 of the world's 15 families of butterflies. Orchids are another speciality with 319 species available here.

So, what is Nepal? A nature lover's retreat, a wildlife enthusiast's haven or a shopper's paradise? Whatever the aim of the traveller, Nepal and it's friendly people try to fulfill the dream.

Do's and Dont's while in Nepal

Though the Nepali people are warm and hospitable, some of the local customs, traditions and mannerisms may confuse visitors, especially at the religious places of worship.

* Shoes are to be removed at every shrine so sandals are a preferable option to shoes and socks.

* Leather items are prohibited in the temples.

* Walk around the temples and stupas in a clockwise direction, that's the traditional way to do it.

* Do not enter places restricted to non-Hindus.

* Take photographs only where allowed. Several shrines prohibit photography.

* Nepalese women do not normally shake hands, it is better to greet them with a namaste.

Fact file

How to get there: Nepal can be reached from India by air or road. Royal Nepal Airlines operates regular flights and Indian Airlines is scheduled to restart services from June 1. Necon Air runs flights on the Kathmandu-Patna sector and is planning an expa nsion to other locations shortly.

Where to stay: There is no dearth of accommodation in Nepal to suit every budget. The prominent hotels are Annapurna (run by the Taj group of hotels), Soaltee, The Everest and Shangri-la. Shangri-la runs a popular hotel in Pokhara too. The Fulbari resort is the latest addition in the luxury sector. Others such as the Fish Tail Lodge and Tibet Hotel are also popular.

What to do: Name it and you can do it. Jungle safaris, rafting, rock climbing, mountain biking, bird watching and hot air ballooning. For those with less time, a mountain flight that offers an aerial view of Mount Everest, Kanchenjunga and the Tibetan Plateau is recommended. Only make sure it's not a cloudy day.

Indian nationals require no visas, but an identity card is essential.Indian currency is freely used and exchanged in Nepal.

For further information, contact: Nepal Tourism Board, Tourist Service Centre, Bhrikuti Mandap, Kathmandu. E-mail: info@ntb.wlink.com.np; Web site: www.welcomenepal.com

Pic.: The Syambhunath temple.