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Views from on high

Summer's the time to try out one of the trekking expeditions up into the misty hills. Neeta Gupta recollects that `top of the world' feeling while climbing up to the Chandrakani Pass on the Kullu trekking route.

One of the more challenging treks of the Kullu trekking circuit is the one to the half-moon-shaped Chandrakhani Pass, situated approximately 12,000 feet above sea level. The Beas valley, fed by tributaries from either side, makes an excellent starting po int for some of the best trekking routes in India. The two main take-off points on this route are Kullu and Manali.

Babeli, about 8 km from Kullu, was our base camp where the first two days were spent getting acclimatised. As we were amateurs, the instructors gave us basic tips for the trek and generally spent time trouble-shooting with us. We were also ta ught the basics of rock climbing and river crossing, which was exhilarating.

We then proceeded to Larikot, about 12 km from Babeli, which affords a spectacular view of the Kullu valley. From Larikot, the route to Pinni crosses the Brinta Top. The extremely steep climb through pine forests is awe-inspiring! On one side, you have these sky-scraping mountains and on the other, deep life-threatening gorges. We made it through with our hearts in our mouth but when we reached the pretty little hamlet of Pinni, it all seemed worthwhile.

The next day, we trekked to Chhalal and visited the famous hot water springs of Manikaran, about 5 km away. Manikaran is famous for its Gurudwara and Shiv-Parvati temples, revered both by the Hindus and Sikhs. Readers might recall that this place has been beautifully captured in Gulzar's `Machis'.

From there, we crossed over to Rasol where we camped for the night. The trek to Rasol is very picturesque. It's almost as if the mountains play hide-and-seek with you! After spending a

night under a galaxy of twinkling stars, we began the trek to Mallana.

Oblivious to happenings in the outside world, the people of Mallana are happy with their centuries-old customs and traditions. Nestling in the lap of nature in a village surrounded by tall deodar trees, the inhabitants of Mallana clai m to be descendants of Alexander the Great. Some of the soldiers who accompanied Alexander the Great during his invasion of India in 326 B.C. stayed back and made Mallana their home. They take great pride in maintaining the purity of their rac e and marry only within the community.

So strict are they with their rules that if a stranger happens to brush against a girl of their community on the road, he has to pay a fine. This money is used to buy a sheep which is sacrificed in a purification ritual. This apart, they are extremely hospitable and provide visitors with two meals and lodging free of cost.

From Mallana, we took a circuitous route to Nagrauni. As soon as we reached there, it started snowing. We stayed up practically all of that night and left for the Chandrakhani Pass in the cover of darkness with the help of torchlight. We had to do th is as the snow would melt with sunrise, making our journey torturous. The road was slippery and we had to alternately use the rope and hang on to bushes or boulders on the way; anything we could grab to keep our balance! I remember swearing to mys elf that I would never come back this way again! But when we finally reached the pass, it all seemed like no sweat at all! The moon hadn't set as yet and it seemed as if we could just reach out our hands and claim it as a reward!

There are moments in life that one would like to cherish and this was one of them. We came back to civilisation in a daze!

The International Youth Hostel organises a trek to the Chandrakhani Pass every year. Those interested may contact them at:

Youth Hostel Association of India,

5, Nyaya Marg, Chanakyapuri,

New Delhi -- 110 021.

India.

Ph: 0091-11-6871969, 6110250

Fax: 0091-11-6113469

E-mail: yhostel@del2.vsnl.net.in

Fact file

How to get there: Seasoned trekkers wanting to make it on their own should make Kullu their starting point.

By air: Bhuntar Airport is 9 km from Kullu. From Kullu, you could trek the rest of the distance via Mallana to the Chandrakhani Pass.

By rail: The two broad gauge railheads to this region are Chandigarh (280 km from Kullu) and Pathankot, from where one can switch over to a narrow gauge line upto Jodindernagar (150 km from Kullu). There are buses available from here to Kullu via Mandi.

By road: The road route from Delhi to Kullu is via Chandigarh. Himachal Road Transport Development Corporation offers an extensive network of buses in the region.

Best season: This is an all-season trek. If you are an amateur and wish to join a group, it would be advisable to contact the International Youth Hostels of India in Delhi or their offices in any other city for more details.

Where to stay: Himachal Tourism offers a wide range of resthouses in the popular tourist centres. But once you're on the trail, you will essentially have to depend on your own carrying capacity!

For further details, contact: The Director, Dept. of Tourism,

Govt. of Himachal Pradesh, Block No. 28, SDA Complex, Kasumpti, Shimla. Ph: 0171-225864.