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Where the gods walk tall

Shona Adhikari

A repository of cultural and religious influences from mainland India, Tibet and Central Asia, Ladakh has often been referred to as `the roof of the world'. With four major mountain ranges -- the Great Himalayan, Zanskar, Ladakh and the Karkoram -- passing through it, it is filled with snow-capped peaks and glaciers. Valley heights range from a mere 8,000 ft up to 15,000 ft and mountain passes nestle as high as 20,000 ft.

The region's major waterway is the River Indus which flows in from Tibet at Demchok. Believed to flow from the mouth of a lion, according to mythology, it is called Sengge Chhu (Tibetan for lion and flowing water respectively).

The world's largest glacier outside the polar region is found here. With sub-zero temperatures between December and February, everything freezes -- waterways, lakes, waterfalls. But when the sun is out, the temperature can rise as high as 20 degrees Cels ius. Trekkers, who have lately been converging on this region in large numbers, will encounter a scorching sun whose ultraviolet rays can cause sunburns.

The most important town and capital of Ladakh is Leh, located at 11,554 ft amidst mountains. Visitors landing at Leh airport are greeted by the spectacular sight of the Spitok Gompa or monastery on a hill adjacent to the runway. Spitok is 1,000 years old ; the climb up is steep but the magnificent view from top makes it worthwhile.

The nine-storey Namgyal Palace, built around 1600 A.D. on a granite ledge shaped rather like an elephant's head, is the town's main attraction. Badly damaged in wars in the 19th century, it was vacated by the royal family which moved to Stok. Vandalism h as worsened its condition but the edifice is slowly being restored. Higher up on the mountains is the even more dilapidated palace-fort built by King Tashi Namgyal in the 16th century. The Leh Monastery, also located here, is well-preserved as are the ma ny monasteries dotting the region.

In the marketplace, shops overflow with Kashmiri and Tibetan goods. Visitors can bargain for semi-precious stones such as lapis lazuli, malachite, turquoise, coral and even pearls. Also available are quaint brass locks, yak-horn boxes, china and metal bo wls. At restaurants set within gardens, you can sample excellent Tibetan food as well as local, Indian and Continental cuisine.

Close to the bazaar is the Jo-khang, a modern ecumenical Buddhist temple. Almost opposite is the Leh Mosque built in 1594 by Singe Namgyal in honour of his Muslim mother. Moving away from the bazaar, past Zangsti, you come upon the Moravian Church, the L adakh Ecological Centre and, across a footpath in the fields, the Sankar Gompa which is the only monastery inside the valley containing the beautiful image of Avalokiteshvara or the Buddha of Compassion.

An attractive village which is practically a suburb of Leh, Changspa lies below a hill on which stands the modern Ladakh Shanti Stupa. Also worth seeing are the earthen ramparts of Zorawar Singh's Fort which is now occupied by the Indian Army. Barely 6 k m from Leh is one of the oldest monasteries in Ladakh -- the Shey Gompa. Built on a huge rock, it was once attached to the summer palace of the rulers. While the abandoned palace lies in ruins, the monastery is well-preserved and contains a 12-metre gold en Buddha said to be the largest in Ladakh.

Sabu, a charming village with a small Gompa, nestles between two mountainous spurs about 9 km away. In the same direction, but slightly closer to town is Choglamser which has a Tibetan refugee settlement, a children's village, a handicrafts centre for ca rpet-weaving and the Dalai Lama's prayer-ground -- Jiva Tsal. Close to the Choglamsar bridge, a road leads to the 200-year-old palace of Stok. The last king of Ladakh died in 1974, but his family still lives. You can visit a small museum here for a small fee.

The Gompas of Ladakh are rich in art and contain superb `tankas' (painted scrolls) and impressive Buddha images. In addition, each Gompa has its own festivals spread throughout the year. The Thikse Gompa, 17 km from Leh, is an interesting red building wi th several temples overlooking the village and the Indus river.

The Hemis Gompa, 45 km from Leh, is the largest and most important in Ladakh. It is famous for its two-day Hemis festival held in the second half of June or early July featuring elaborate mask dances.

`The most isolated of all the trans-Himalayan valleys' -- that is how Zanskar is described. As the Zanskar road winds down the steep slopes of the watershed to the head of the Stod valley, the majestic `Drang-Drung' glacier looms into view. A long and wi nding river of ice and snow, it is possibly the largest glacier in Ladakh, outside the Siachen formation. The Zanskar river is formed by the combining of two mountain rivers flowing towards each other along the northern flank of the Great Himalayas. The Zanskar river flows northwards through a gorge and meets the Indus at Nimo.

Once the capital of the ancient kingdom of Zanskar, Padum is the administrative headquarters of the region with a population of 1,000. A new township is being developed along the recently-built road. The Stagrimo Monastery, home to about 30 monks, is sit uated on a hill above the old town. Religion plays an important part in the region which has the largest number of Gompas outside the Indus valley. The more important Gompas are Sani, Karsha and Stongde in the central plain. Bardan and Phugtal are just o ff the Padum-Manali trail and the small hermitage of Dzonkhul is on the way to Umasi-la.

The picturesque village of Sani, 6 km west of Padum, has a castle-like monastery built on level ground. It is believed to have been first built in the 2nd B.C. by the Kushan ruler, Kanishka, as borne out by a Kanika Stupa in the backyard. A huge, multi-c olumned central prayer hall has an array of statues depicting Buddhist divinities and is decorated with frescoes and tankas.

Zanskar has become a favourite with trekkers in recent years. Padum is the centre for hard but rewarding treks to Manali via Shingo-la (16,732 ft), Kishtwar via Umasi-la (17,828 ft) and Lamayuru and Leh via difficult routes through the Zanskar range. Tre ks into Zanskar are principally undertaken down the valley from the north (Kargil) or up the valley from the south (Manali).

You can try a four-day trek starting from Padum (10,000 ft) which is popular among visitors. The Manali-Padum trek takes 10 days and trekkers can take a bus from Manali to Keylong and start the trek from Darcha. Oen has to cross the Baralacha La, a doubl e pass, the Lungalacha-la and the Taglang-la. The terrain is populated only by herdsmen and the landscape is almost barren. Many prefer to turn back south and cross the Shino La back to Darcha in two days.

The Padam-Lamayuru trek takes eight days and includes a difficult ascent to the 14,000-ft Shing La pass and the Nrag La at 15,000 ft. Lamayuru is said to have been a sacred site for a pre-Buddhist religion known as Bon. It is not surprising that religion plays such a strong part in the lives of those who live in this region... high up in the mountains with so little habitation, it is really like being close to God.

Fact file

How to get there

Air -- Indian Airlines flights operate to Leh from Delhi, Srinagar, Jammu and Chandigarh. Unmetalled roads lead to others places from Leh.

Road -- The 434 km Srinagar-Leh road plies deluxe, A-class and ordinary buses to Padum. There is also a 473 km Manali-Leh road which plies deluxe and ordinary buses during the tourist season. Taxis and Gypsies are available for point-to-point travel.

Where to stay

Leh -- Tsemo-La, Khangri, Lha-ri-Mo, Peerless K-Sar Palace.

Zanskar -- Tourist Bungalow, Chora-la, Ibex Hotel, Shapodokla (dormitory), Haftal View

Pic.:The Thikse Gompa with its many temples.