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In Santa Claus land

Inder Raj Ahluwalia

Our quick `Arctic briefing' was over mugfuls of blueberry vodka, and our guides from `Wildtours' -- both of whom were veterans in their field -- seemed in a hurry as they kitted us out in isothermic gear.

We were deep inside the Arctic Circle in Kiruna, for long the world's largest city at 20,000 sq km, which makes it half the size of Switzerland. Snow fell softly as we arrived in this great wilderness area with large tundra regions in the north and the m ighty Kebnekarse massif in the south, with miles of open country in between, the ultimate outdoorsman's paradise.

Though winter temperatures plummet, tourists go indoors mainly to sleep or spend time enjoying the unique landscape. During most of summer, the sun shines without a break and the midnight sun is a polar phenomenon. The sun never sets from May 28 till mid -July, making northern Lapland one large greenhouse. Come winter, and the sun takes a holiday from December 9, resting just under the horizon, offering five hours of daylight called the `blue twilight'.

But even in the middle of the night it isn't really dark, thanks to the snow, the moon, and the famous Aurora Borealis, known as the `northern lights', which attract tourists from all over the world. Japanese women believe children conceived during Auror a Borealis are born healthy and happy. Yet another legend of the Arctic...

Out of the airport, into the open, and immediately onto a dog-sledge with 12 of the tundra's friendliest and friskiest huskies. ``Mind your feet,'' our guide cautioned us, and off we went. ``Huskies love to eat, sleep, and run,'' we were told, and who we re we to complain on that cold, clear morning?

The surety of snow is what established Kiruna's fame, and one can vouch for it every winter. One can ski from end-October through end-April, be part of a snow-scooter safari at Lainio, Riksgransen and Jukkasarvi, fish in as many as 6,200 lakes, and raft in six alpine rivers. Riksgransen and Bjorkbden are excellent winter-sports centres with downhill possibilities, off-piste skiing, snowboarding and telemark skiing.

The tundra between Tometrask and the Finnish border shows the region's sheer physical expanse and the new Nordkalott Trail snakes through three countries. Abisko's trails have day trips, Nooija has `family tours' and Laktatjaffo has `waffle tours'. A pop ular Kiruna winter event is `jig fishing' (ice fishing), also known as `binocular fishing', particularly enjoyable when the char, trout and grayling are running in the Tornetrask, Rautasjavre and Rastojaure lakes. Completing the `nature package' are wild flowers such as the mountain orchid `Lappfeia' and the Laestadius Poppy.

Sami barbecuing is an adventure by itself. `Suovas' are all-time favourites, made from reindeer meat marinated overnight and then smoked over a birchwood fire and deep-fried with mushrooms. So is `fjailroding', Arctic char marinated in Absolut Citron and finely chopped chives, and served with walnut sauce. Contrary to popular belief, and certainly my own, alcohol consumption outdoors is taboo. ``Big health trouble,'' came the answer in chorus when I asked why.

Though the municipality was populated several centuries ago, Kiruna city is young, founded at the turn of the century when mining started in what would become the world's largest underground mine, the Kiirunavaara. Today, high-rise structures and modern shopping malls dot the cityscape. The church, with its lovely altarpiece, is a must-see as also the Kiruna City Hall with its beautiful clock tower and art museum, the Hjaimar Lundbohm House.

Mirroring Lapp life are centres such as Samegarden which has a permanent exhibition, the Jukkasjarvi Homestead Museum with its handicrafts collection, and the all-female crafts co-operative Mattarakha facility.

The last weekend in January features the annual snow festival, among Europe's grandest. The five-day holiday period packs events ranging from art exhibitions to theatre, concerts, snow sculpture competitions, and dog and reindeer races.

Time flew and experiences flooded our calendar. Kiruna is all about images. There were the reindeer farms and hot coffee sipped in cosy wigwams, snow-scooter rides that bordered on `suicide' risk-levels, and snow, all-shrouding and grand as far as one co uld see. And there was the famous Ice Hotel, the world's largest igloo spread over 4,000 sq. m, whose lobby, rooms and `Absolut Bar' are all made from ice. One sleeps on a bed of ice covered with reindeer skins! Talk about `cold hospitality'.

As we were leaving, it started to snow heavily, giving the white landscape a fresh coat. But no matter how much it snows in Kiruna, no one complains. After all, it is an industry by itself.

Fact file

Getting there: Located in Sweden's northern tip, Kiruna is two hours flying from Stockholm. SAS operates regular flights from Delhi to Copenhagen, and from there to Kiruna. One can also take a train from Stockholm.

Indian nationals require a visa to visit Sweden.

Accommodation: The town has several hotels and restaurants, and vegetarian food is also available.

Clothing: One needs special polar clothing in winter. Tour companies organise clothing and equipment.

Language: English is widely spoken in the hospitality industry.