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Pied Piper shows the way

In the legendary German town of Hameln, Inder Raj Ahluwalia describes a unique tour that brings to life Robert Browning's popular poem, The Pied Piper of Hamelin.

``It was the year 1284 when a strange and wondrous figure arrived in Hameln. He was attired in a coat of many colours and promised to free the town of a plague of rats and mice for a fixed sum of money.'' But it didn't turn out that way. (From the Brothers Grimm, `Deutsche Sage').

For seven centuries the world has been fascinated by the remarkable legend of the Pied Piper, who on being denied payment by the citizens of Hameln for ridding the town of rats, led 130 children out of the town on June 2, 1284. Historians are still unsur e about exactly what happened on that day, but the fairy-tale legend continues to enchant.

Today, tourists can hear the legend of Hameln from a `modern-day Piper' dressed exactly like his legendary model, with the same multi-coloured coat, hat with long feather and a pipe, and follow him on a city tour along the route the original one had take n on that fateful day. The tour also enables one to savour the sights of the Weser Renaissance and the Old Town Restoration.

The sun shone brightly as we started the tour. ``Exactly the way the sun shone on that fateful day,'' our obliging Piper declared cheerily. ``Sort of makes things more authentic doesn't it...'' And off he went, with us in tow.

As we went along, it became obvious that the backdrop to the story is the town itself. The Weser Renaissance buildings are a well-preserved treasure, once defined by an architectural connoisseur as ``the dainty northern variant of serious Italian themes' '. The typical characteristics of this construction style are richly decorated gables with scrolls, pyramids, masks called `Neidkopfe' (envious neighbour's heads), inscriptions on building fronts, ornamental fillets with coats of arms and decorated, prot ruding bay windows.

The renovation and reconstruction work has made Hameln a complete restoration project, with outstanding examples such as the Museum, the Hochzeitshaus, Rattenfangerh and the Rattenkrug. Along with traffic-free lanes, these charming buildings blend modern business districts with cultural and historical monuments into a vibrant whole. And everywhere, there are sculptures and images of the Pied Piper.

The Pied Piper House bears an inscription related to the 1284 exodus of the children, and a small museum features a Pied Piper collection. Also interesting is the Glockenspiel with a group of clockwork figures on the Hochzeitshaus. To fully imbibe the at mosphere, take a river boat cruise on the Weser, to which the Piper led the rats. Visitors in December also get to enjoy the magical Christmas market.

After our city-tour, the Piper led us to a popular contemporary ritual, the special and delicious `Rat's Meal' at the historic `Ratcatcher's House'. This famous restaurant has played host to several international dignitaries with its specialised recipe, `Flambeed Rat's Tails' (actually tiny chicken slices, briefly marinated in wine, mixed with vegetables and flambeed in front of guests).

The town honours its legendary history in a cordial manner. Besides following the Piper on his tour and listening to his incredible story, one can also see some interesting performances. He performs on stage in an open-air play staged on Sundays, and one can hear his flute recital in the daily staged mechanical play at the Hochzeitshaus terrace, that also features some 80 amateur players in historical costumes, playing citizens, councillors, children and rats.

Tourism apart, Hameln is the most important trading and cultural centre in the Weserbergland. But it is the legend of the Pied Piper that is most talked about, and that has made the town known the world over...

Fact file

Getting there: Hameln is a two-hour drive from Hannover. The best way to reach is via Frankfurt. Lufthansa operates several daily flights from Hannover to Frankfurt and from Frankfurt to Chennai, Delhi and Mumbai.

Lodging: The town has several hotels of different categories, including budget accommodation and camping areas. Varied cuisine, including vegetarian, is available at restaurants and cafes.

Information: The local tourist office provides relevant details and literature, and is the starting point of the Pied Piper tour.

Other interests: Hameln is a good jump-off point for excursions to places such as Wolfenbuttel, which has the world-renowned Herzog August Library.

Indian nationals require a visa to enter Germany.

Pic.: Dressed for the part -- a modern-day Pied Piper of Hameln.