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Picture-book vistas

Inder Raj Ahluwalia

There are two things you are supposed to do in town. Visit the Niederwald Memorial in a small, shaky, but reliable cable-car -- a tale in itself -- and drop in at Breur's Rudesheimer Schloss for a traditional meal and the local speciality, a special coff ee with brandy and cream flambe (Asbach Uralt).

Rudesheim am Rhein ... Quite a little town. Situated in the middle of the Rheingau vineyards at the entrance to the Loreley valley, it shows the very best of German hospitality. One can discover the Rhine by boat, cable-car or chairlift, from the river's banks or from the hotel-room window.

Since the beginning of the last century, Rudesheim has been an attraction and inspiration for English and German romantic writers. Today, tourists throng its narrow streets and vineyard surroundings, eating ice-creams and sipping local wine.

The town was made for tourism. There is tradition, classified hotels, unique vineyards, distinctive sights and gastronomy offering everything from live music and a special dining experience to typical places which sell home-grown wine. And there is the s pecial brandy flambe coffee with Asbach Uralt, and the world-famous Rudesheimer Riesling.

Speciality shops open every day to entice visitors with local handicrafts and souvenirs. There is hiking, cycling, mountain-biking, wine festivals and concerts. And tranquility in the forests of the nature-park `Rhein-Taunus'. Little wonder that today it is among Germany's most-visited towns.

About 1,800 metres through thin mist in a small cable car is a long ride, especially with icy rain lashing one's face. `There goes my chance for photographs', I thought. Typical, isn't it?

The memorial dominates not just the small town but the entire stretch of valley. With its statue of `Germania', the 38-metre high memorial was built from 1877-1883 to commemorate the Franco-German War of 1870-1871 and the reestablishment of the German Em pire.

The monument was the basis for modern tourism and so a rack railway was built -- the forerunner of today's cable-car -- which transported visitors through the vineyards to the monument as of 1884. In 1954, the rack railway was replaced by the cable-car, and since then, over 20 million people from the world over, have glided in two-person cars over the vines to the memorial.

Once up there, you realise it is all worth the effort and 10 DM. Presented is a picture-book vista with stunning views of the romantic old town-centre of Rudesheim and of the Rhine Valley, and its little towns right up to Mainz.

The memorial excursion behind me, I was ready for the town. It takes just minutes to discover local treasures. There are several ancient manors such as Bassenheimer Hof, Osteiner Hof and Ritter' scher Hof. The Klunkartshof is a wonderful half-timber hous e dating from the 16th century. And there is also the fortified Adlerturm.

In the 1,000-year-old Bromsburg, the oldest castle on the Rhine, one can explore an authentic wine museum with a precious collection of drinking vessels. The castle served, for centuries, as the residence of the archbishop of Mainz and today its interior s resonate with the babble of excited tourists.

The Bromserhof, former seat of the Knights of Bromser, is a historical building dating back to the 15th century. Its history apart, the Bromserhof houses `Siegfried's Mechanisches Musikkabinett', where one can see one of the biggest collections of self-p laying mechanical musical instruments from the 18-20th century. There are automatic music instruments from the tiniest music box to the giant `Concert-Piano Orchestrion'.

Nothing proclaims the town's fame more than a little street that takes a minute to walk but a whole day to discover. There is 144 metres of vivacious fun in the Drosselgasse -- that little, world-famous lane with its wine restaurants, live music and spec ial atmosphere -- that draws tourists like a magnet. This is where one sits down to a bottle of local wine and live music, rubbing shoulders with tourists who seem to want to sip, shop and eat at the same time.

It wouldn't do to leave town without dropping by at Breur's Rudesheimer Schloss. Built in 1729, the establishment boasts a hotel and a wine-inspired restaurant. The decor is wine-based, with barrels hanging from the ceiling and the choice of wines is com plemented by knowledgeable staff only too glad to help out in selecting just what to have with your meal. There is typical regional cuisine and also international items, and they put your national flag on your table to make you feel really welcome. At ha nd to welcome you and even join your table briefly, is Heinrich Breuer, whose family has a background of over-a-century of wine cultivation.

Fact file

Getting there:

By rail: Rudesheim is an hour by train from Frankfurt, and the rail station is a minute's walk from the centre of town.

Accommodation: There are hotels ranging from four-stars to budget accommodation which is available for 50 DM per night.

Food: While there are several restaurants, the best experience is offered at the little wine taverns on Drosselgasse. A meal for two with local wine costs from DM 60 to DM 100.

Tips: The local Tourist Office is a five-minute walk from the station and provides relevant literature and information. Indian nationals require a visa to enter Germany.