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Freezing history for posterity


COOL SEA breeze on a summer evening is heavenly. Amid the rolling waves, hot sands and the orange skies, the rays get reflected from this building which cannot go unnoticed. Yes, there stands an architectural landmark, the "Vivekanandar Illam", opposite the longest beach in India.

The Vivekanandar Illam, built 158 years ago and housed in about two acres of land, was meant to store ice, and was called the Ice House. Eventually, the house became a silent spectator to a series of events.

Apart from Chennai, Mumbai and Calcutta also had similar structures built by Frederic Tudor, the 'Ice King'. Amongst the three, only the one at Chennai, built in 1842, stands today. Frederic's business flourished till 1880 and collapsed with the invention of making ice by the 'steam process' in India.

The ownership of the building then shifted hands, and Biligiri Iyengar, an advocate of the Madras High Court bought the house. He then remodelled the house, adding a touch of elegance with circular verandahs and more windows.

As a tribute to his friend, Justice Kernan of the Madras High Court, he named the house 'Castle Kernan'. It acquired historical and cultural importance after Swami Vivekananda's stay at the house. In fact, Vivekananda had come to Tamil Nadu twice - first as a monk (December 1892 to April 1893) and then as the famous Swami, after his appearance at the Chicago Parliament of Religions and successful preaching in the West for four years.

Biligiri Iyengar readily offered Castle Kernan to the Swami for his stay. During that time, from February 6 to 15, 1897, Vivekananda delivered seven electrifying lectures on how he planned to restore India's pristine glory.

On his departure for Calcutta, some of his Chennai devotees requested him to have a permanent centre and he deputed Swami Ramakrishnananda to initiate the activities of the Ramakrishna Order in South India. The house was then used as a base for their work. A shrine of Ramakrishna thus came into being which is the first branch of the Ramakrishna Math. Today, it is an international spiritual organisation.

After Biligiri Iyengar died, Ramakrishnananda continued his work here till 1906, when this house was auctioned by the mortgagee.

Later in 1917, the Government of Madras took over the Ice House and converted it, as a part of their social welfare scheme, into a Government Secondary Training School for Women, and it was called 'Marine Mansion'. In 1963, the home coming centenary of Swami Vivekananda, the then State Government christened the house 'Vivekanandar Illam'. The Ramakrishna Math wanted to acquire it and preserve it as a monument. On February 6, 1997, the State Government announced that the monument would be handed over to the Ramakrishna Math, Mylapore, on lease, to set up a permanent exhibition.

The Illam houses a permanent exhibition depicting Indian cultural heritage and Swami Vivekananda's life. There is a painting section, a photo gallery, a dhyana mantapam and an education centre equipped with books, journals, audio and video.

Some of the photographs donated by the Vedanta Society of St. Louis, U.S. for the display are rare. With the help of Swami Chetanananda, new negatives for all the photographs have been made . At the dhyana mantapam, people can sit and meditate. About its significance, the resident swamy says, "People of various religions from all over the world visit the Illam. For educational institutions, especially corporation schools, we have a special concession."

The swami says, "The initial takeover was difficult and as work progressed, everything went off smoothly. Even those staying in the neighbouring areas moved out to give way for this spiritual monument. We did not even have to make any structural alterations. The lease expired on February 23, 2000, and further negotiations are on with the Government for extension of lease."

The exhibition timings are: 10 a.m. to 12 noon, and 3 p.m. to 7.00 p.m., with Wednesday as the weekly holiday.

SUDHA SHENOY

* * *

Monumental ice house

It is an architectural marvel. For, this 'Ice House' could store ice for days without the modern refrigeration technique.

Built on a high plinth, the building serves a monumental and functional purpose. The building is classical in form and detail. The highlight is the semi-circular classical arcaded verandah filled with neo-classical arches and windows, which allow plenty of sea breeze and light into the building. The basement, where ice used to be stored, had minimal light and ventilation. The roof is in the form of a barrel vault, which helped to keep the inside cool.

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