Three Hoysala gems

The Hoysala rulers were responsible for some of the most exquisite temples. Developed on the architectural style of the Chalukyas, these structures have intricate details that are breathtaking. MAYA JAYAPAL visits the Hoysala trio - Belur, Halebid and Somnathpur.

THE profusion of temple architectural styles in India can be awe inspiring. One group of temples which never fails to fascinate an observer is the Hoysala trio - Belur, Halebid and Somnathapura. Each visit is a voyage of discovery, with the eye picking out either a novel feature or a variety of architectural details.

In the Deccan, The Hoysala dynasty emerged during the middle of the 11th Century and continued till about the 14th Century. The rulers were responsible for the creation of some of the most exquisite temples in the region, the most popular being the Hoysala trio, although there are many more examples that can be found, some in a deplorable state. Historians contend that to a certain extent, it is not a totally new style, but one that was developed from the architectural style of the Chalukyas, their progenitors. However, the intricate details of the sculptures are breathtaking.

Although there are certain distinct features common to the three temples, each leaves a unique impression.

The general plan is that of a central structure surrounded by walls which is set on a high platform extending on all sides of the temple. The effect is to provide a wide pradakshina or circumambulatory path for devotees. This is to offer them a perspective of the sculptures on the walls. The structure stands in the middle of a large paved and walled courtyard with a number of cells and replete with a pillared verandah in front.

The external walls of the shrine are star shaped. This stellar shape is often repeated on the shikara (top ornamental structure) crowning the structure; in Somnathpura there are three vimanas of equal beauty and magnitude.

The Belur temple, the earliest in the group and built c. 1117 A.D., to commemorate a victory against the Cholas, has a single star shaped structure, whereas the Halebid temple (c. 1121), on the site of the old capital, has a double sanctum like a twin temple, one beside the other, with the side wings joined to allow access to each other. Halebid, where the temples are dedicated to Vishnuvardhana and his consort Santaleswara, has a huge Nandi (or bull )mantapa, with an imposing statue of the bull. The Somnathapura, my favourite, has three star shaped sanctums, each placed at three angles. The last mentioned is the newest addition, built in 1268.

The temple bases have bands of intricately carved figures running around the walls. Every inch is minutely carved; the stone used, a dark grey green chloritic schist - soft to carve and which hardens with age - is just right to carve. There is a pattern to these friezes, loosely adhered to. The lowest usually has elephants which are supposed to support the temple, a miniature cosmos. Each elephant has a different pose, and when one realises that the Belur temple has 650 elephant figures it is no mean task. Some have their trunks raised, some have them curved playfully around the tail of the one in front. Each one is jewelled and intricately made. Next come the horsemen, well caparisoned, galloping on their gaily decorated steeds with hoofs raised and tails flying. Then there is a band of spiral foliage with arabesques and curlicues, followed by a wider band depicting a succession of Puranic scenes from the Mahabharata and the Ramayana. At Halebid there are lovely sculptures of Krishna with his flute and Brahma on his goose. The last band comprises either hamsa or mythical birds with plumed tails or bands of yalis.

Besides these, every corner has ornate niches containing images of deities. The dancing Ganesa or nritya Ganapati is a favourite, and so is Vishnu in a dancing pose. These are crowned by rows of miniature shikara models. Above these are perforated windows which filter in light in interesting patterns. Unfortunately, the shikaras have vanished from Belur and Halebid.

In Belur there are bracket figures with each having a canopy of leaves, fruit and flowers under which are lovely maidens - madanikas - embodying ideal Indian womanhood. These women are adorned with a wealth of detail in their make-up, jewellery and coiffures. Their bangles and bracelets can rotate around their limbs, a testament to the skills of the artisans, many of whom have signed their work. It is interesting to note that many of the sculptors were women. The attention to detail can be seen in the sculpture of a lizard about to catch a fly sitting on a jackfruit.

The Somnatha temple, dedicated to Keshava, was built on the left bank of the Cauvery by Soma Dandanayaka, a minister in the court of Narasimha III. It has 64 cells facing the temple; these once contained images of gods and goddesses but, now, are sadly empty. To me, this temple, because of its triple star shaped sanctums, depicts the apogee of Hoysala art. There are many projections and niches in the walls because of this feature, and the images can be seen to advantage at different times of day, depending on the play of light and shade.

The doorways of the Hoysala temple are marvellously and ornately carved. Inside the dark interiors, one sees distinctive pillars supposedly lathe-turned, embellished with a profusion of carving. The Chennakesava temple in Belur has 46 pillars, each of a different design, and done by different artists. And the embellishments on the ceiling are wondrous; in places the carvings are floral or serpentine. In Somnathpura, the central part has a lotus bud in the centre with dikpalas and their retinue of dancers in eight corners. It is no wonder that the eminent historian Percy Brown, referred to these temples as "richly carved caskets in sandalwood or ivory".

Fact File

BELUR and Halebid can both be seen with a base at Hassan which is 185 km by road from Bangalore. Belur is 38 km from Hassan. Halebid is 17 km east of Hassan. At Hassan, stay at Hotel Ashok. Somnathpur is 45 km east of Mysore. The Karnataka State Tourism Corporation operates buses during the day to Belur and Halebid.

A new concept of helitourism has been developed by Deccan Aviation - helicopters transport you to the nearest landing place from where you are picked up and taken to the temples. The helicopter seats six passengers and the trip costs approximately $2,500 for visits to all three temples.

Contact Captan Gopinath at Deccan Aviation, Bangalore at ph:85613789 or on cellphone 9845029638.

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