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Science & Tech
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Things that taste bad are good for health
BRUSSELS SPROUTS, grapefruit, cabbage, kale, mustard greens,
arugula, spinach, dark chocolates, red wine and a lot of other
typical Thanksgiving leftovers are proven to contain dietary
phytonutrients.
These nutrients have been associated with cancer prevention and
other health benefits.
As a review by a University of Washington researcher showed,
because these trace chemicals taste bitter, acrid or astringent
the food industry has devoted decades of work to removing these
phytonutrients.
Dr. Adam Drewnowski, director of the UW Nutritional Sciences
Program, said in a research review published by the American
Journal of Clinical Nutrition that when it comes to
phytonutrients, the demands of good taste and good health may be
wholly incompatible.
"Many people don't like to eat vegetables - and the feeling is
mutual," Drewnowski said. "Plants protect themselves against
being eaten by secreting natural pesticides and other bitter-
tasting toxins.
In small amounts, the phenols, flavnoids, isoflavones and other
chemicals are proving to be good for us."
Unfortunately, a dislike of these flavours has been ingrained in
most people by nature. Humans and other animals have long
associated bitter or sour flavors with spoiled or poisonous food.
That is why food manufacturers routinely remove these compounds
from plant foods through selective breeding and a variety of
debittering processes. Drewnowski said this is where science and
gastronomy must come together.
The solution, Drewnowski said, is in using the wisdom found in
Mediterranean cuisine. For generations, cooks in Greece, Italy
and France have coped with bitter vegetables by seasoning them
lightly with salt and dashes of olive oil.
The oil in particular blunts the bitter flavors of
phytonutrients. The fact that the amount of bitter plant
compounds in the current American diet is so small is a
reflection of the achievements of the agricultural industry.
Debittering foods, either chemically during processing, or by
breeding bitterness out of such things as broccoli and zucchini,
has been a focal point of the industry for decades.
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