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Online edition of India's National Newspaper Monday, December 25, 2000 |
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Palate-pleasing
MAMMA MIA! That is all I could say after biting into the crunchy
Bruchetta (Rs. 30), the golden toasted bread slice with olive oil
and garlic smeared on it. But that is only because my knowledge
of the Italian language is limited only to these words. Had I
known more, I would have done a Roberto Benigni ("Life is
Beautiful") at the Oscars.
There is hardly anything to talk, regarding the ambience at Bella
Ciao, the pokey little restaurant on Second Avenue, Besant Nagar.
Yet, the food eloquently makes up for the shortfall. Run by an
Italian couple, the food can't get more authentic at these
prices. To me, olive oil and garlic has the same magic, charm and
romance as that of strawberry and cream. A single taste of good
golden green oil is supposed to take you straight to the olive
groves of Tuscany. Aficionados mull over the fruity, nutty or
even grassy flavour of the olio'd oliva. And where could
Bruchetta come from but Tuscany, famed for its olive oil. The
second starter, bread topped with cheese and ham (Rs. 55) was
also good.
The menu is classified into first and second courses, both in veg
and non-veg list. For the first course, it was Spaghetti'o riso,
all pescatora or pasta with shrimps, calamari and fish with
tomato sauce. The Rs.110 dish was tasty and ample enough. Lamb
cooked in red wine (Rs.130) was the second course. The
attractively presented plate with tender mutton, potato mash,
beans and carrot fingers and cucumber slices drizzled with herbed
extra virgin olive oil was pleasing to the palate too. The
aromatic vegetables complemented the bland potato very well
indeed.
The Ballerina salad (Rs. 85) with lettuce, mushrooms, walnuts in
yoghurt dressing and honey drizzle was scrumptious enough to make
me want to go back to try the rest of the salads at least. The
walnut and honey add such a sparkle to the ordinary yoghurt
dressing that the leafy fare becomes as glamorous as its
namesake.
Though bursting at the seams, we couldn't go without trying a
pizza. The name, Al Capone (Rs. 150), leapt out of the list for
obvious reasons. The topping with cheese, mushrooms, bacon and
onions (this was an extra, you have a selection of veg, each at
Rs. 20, and non veg, each at Rs. 30, ingredients to add to the
pizza of your choice) and thin, I mean really thin, crust without
the all powerful tomato sauce, was a new experience. And it was a
nice one too. Instead of the tomato ketchup bottle came olive oil
infused with rosemary as condiment to go with the pizza.
Besides all these Italiana, there are fast food items like
burgers, hotdogs, fish n chips, fried chicken and sandwiches.
Moving to the sweet finish, Tiramisu (Rs. 50) is as much an
Italian classic as Sophia Loren is. The elegant chocolate and
coffee dessert is a must try item. Crhme caramel (also Rs. 50)
the other one on the menu, is also good. As a rule, I welcome
only crhme brulee of the custard family. But the Bella Ciao
custard pudding didn't have that all too common predominant eggy
flavour. Its creamy and light and the banana slices definitely
add to the taste.
What is urgently needed at Bella Ciao is space. With such a
value-for-money fare it is a miracle that the restaurant stayed
on at its current premises for so long.
MARIEN MATHEW
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