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Rice and millet
IT is strange how we take certain things for granted. Like rice.
We call ourselves rice-eaters, not knowing an entire history of
agriculture and eating habits in Tamilnadu. Recently I was
reading Cho. Dharman's Toorvai, a novel where a character who has
come away from the village yearns for millet and finds rice
tasteless. I was reminded of a Nigerian writer called Flora Nwapa
whom I met in 1986. Flora presented me one of her books of poetry
called Cassava Song and Rice Song. The "Cassava Song" is a
tribute to Cassava, a yam-like root, which had been the staple
food of Nigerians for a long time. The "Rice Song" is, on the
other hand, a condemnation. Rice is an expensive imported food,
which drains Nigerian coffers while doing little to nourish the
population.
Flora Nwapa calls cassava, Mother Cassava, for, she says it is
like a mother to the Nigerian children. The cassava is tasty and
nutritious and has sustained people during times of war and
famine. Flora Nwapa describes an entire life built around
cassava.
She begins by describing how it is cooked:
The roots ferment and then are taken out and dried. Cassava has
an odour. Flora admires even the odour. She writes:
Then the cassava is pounded in a mortar and made into balls and
put in boiling water using a large wooden spoon. When it is
ready, it is taken out and pounded again and placed again in the
furnace to cook. While it cooks, the other ingredients of the
soup are got ready. "There may not be fish in the soup, but
cassava is plenty" says Flora. Even a small child can eat it. Who
is now going to wash the pot?
Cassava is naturally preserved and can stay for days. But it was
not a cash crop. So slowly it was ignored. Flora urges a return
to the eating of cassava. She explains:
She says, punning with the word "roots" and adds:
And the "Rice Song" begins with this question:
She calls rice "bird-like" food unknown to their great grand-
parents. In the good old days, the mothers prepared cassava, yam
and maize fufu with okra and ogbono soups with fresh and dried
fish. Many different herbs went into the food and it was washed
down with palm wine brought fresh from the tree every morning.
Then the white man came. Rice was not the white man's staple
food. Nor was it that of the Nigerians. And yet it became the
food of the rich. "A poor man does not eat rice" became a well-
known proverb. Rice became a status symbol. And beer replaced
palm wine.
Flora pleads for a ban on imported rice and for incentives to
rice growers. In 1984, the papers said that in the 18 months
between 1982 and 1984, Nigeria had spent a staggering 600 million
naira on rice importation. If one supposes that it was a nation
of 600 million people it meant that each one had consumed one
million naira worth of rice in eighteen months! Flora makes her
demand:
Flora's impassioned poetry must have reached the ears of some
Nigerians at least. May be those of us who want to bring up our
children on McDonalds food and Coca-Cola must read it too. So
that we can experience once again the taste of millet and
homegrown vegetables.
C. S. LAKSHMI
C. S. Lakshmi is an independent researcher and a writer. She
writes in Tamil under the presudonym Ambai. She has two short
story collections and a translated one in English called A Purple
Sea to her credit. She is the founder-trustee and director of
SPARROW (Sound and Picture Archives for Researches on Women).
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