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Online edition of India's National Newspaper Monday, July 02, 2001 |
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A hot romance
IT WAS romancing the chilly. Long, slender, smooth, curvy in a
come hither red against the plant green, she oozes more oomph
that any action babe on the AXN. If you are a bad boy/girl and
get greedy, then you will understand why the French attached
fatale to femme.
In the land of Shotgun Murugans it gets going only when it is
hot, more hot and even hotter! The Athiruchi Andhra food festival
at Southern Spice, Taj Coromandel, was a paean to this
volatility.
From the starter, Pachi royyalu vepudu or spicy prawns to the
main course, Kothamiri vonkaya, a.k.a brinjals in coriander
chilli gravy, the seductress whether as green or red, young and
tactile or wrinkled and potent... the chilli was the star.
The Andhra cuisine is merely a vehicle to showcase the
CapsicumSolanaceae (chilli) family.
In the banana flower vadai, it was a perfect blend of garlic,
ginger and green chillies with the lentils and banana flower to
make a hot, crisp grandma's wonder. The chicken soup was another
home-style classic. Though the non-veg dishes like chicken curry
with the famous palate blowing knock out Guntur chillies and
prawn curry were good, I was floored by the brinjal brigade. That
kothamiri vonkaya was nothing short of poetry. Here the
supporting cast of tamarind-coriander combination was
magnificent. So was the gongura annam or the gongura rice and
Dumpala karam (spicy deep fried potatoes).
Another surprise was the old favourite, pesarattu. It was both
crisp and soft at the same time, beautifully browned outside and
stuffed with rava upma it was a dream.
By the time I reached the dessert stage, it was merely a matter
of testing the elasticity of the stomach muscles and mind power.
Potharekula, paper-thin sweet rice pancakes, was the dark horse
here. The airy concoction literally disintegrated in the mouth.
The chef Balaji's description of long toil behind the translucent
layers would make you appreciate it more.
The other sweets were the moong dal payasam, kajalu and ariselu,
all closely related to our traditional sweets. The last one was
nothing but a rather limp athirasam. Kajalu was a variation of
the badusha theme.
At end of the gorgeous feed comes the killjoy... the bill. Play-
hard and pay-hard - universal law works here. Worse is the rider
taxes extra. But hey, all that is part of life.
MARIEN MATHEW
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Section : Features Next : Young friends of culture | |
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