Threads of tradition

THE ROMANCE of history's ancient "silk and cotton routes" were often embellished by India's magical embroidery forms, described by Roman historians as "painting with a needle." And indeed, the silver needle of Indian embroidery continued to 'paint,' decorate and define robes, raiments, clothes, shoes, headgear and even tents and camel and elephant cloths, through history, threading it with myth and lore, magical motifs and all the colours of the rainbow. Continuing the tradition today are Indian and international couturiers and designers who use the country's varied and intricate embroidery skills with brilliant effect on western ensembles, traditional Indian outfits - and, of course, the timeless, beautiful sari...

'Shilpi', one of Chennai's leading sari boutiques, takes one along a fascinating 'embroidery route' fashioned out of a mix of impeccable textures and weaves, craft traditions such as tie and dye, block prints and Warli art, and fabled traditional embroideries like sozani, crewel, kantha, zardosi, phool patti ka kaam and kasuti. The 'Stitch Witchery' embroidered sari exhibition-cum-sale celebrates embroidery forms from Kashmir to Karnataka and emphasises not only a rich heritage but the transformation embroidery can work in turning a sari into an exquisite work of wearable art.

Take a look at 'Shilpi's 'Stitch Witchery' collection. Crepes, silks, georgettes and tussars in soft 'sherbati' shades worked with the delicate perfection of Kashmir's sozani, crewel work and rezkari on both kurtas and saris. Densely and delicately embroidered paisley, leaf and vine, flowers and the chinar leaf in lovely muted colours embellish borders and pallavs with intricate perfection reminiscent of Kashmir's fabled shawls. So fine is the embroidery done with single thread that it appears the same on both the obverse and reverse sides. From the ethereal loveliness of Kashmiri embroidery 'Stitch Witchery' takes one to Rajasthan's 'phool patti ka kaam' outlined with'gota.' The small traditional motifs picked out with 'gota' create sheer magic on the sari, making it a perfect festive wear. A touch of zardosi on crepes and silk achieves the same effect. The 'enchanted wrap' of kantha embroidered saris forms some of the most spectacular saris in the Shilpi collection. The simple running stitch of kantha covers entire saris or fills up traditional motifs to create the famous rippling and whirling effect. Done on muted, soft or brilliantly-coloured tussars, silks and crepes, the kantha saris celebrate the 'stitch of unification and beauty' on many one-of- its-kind saris and salwar kameez ensembles.

And now about Karnataka's kasuti with auspicious geometric motifs depicting 'gopurams,' 'kolams,' flowers, elephant, deer, peacock, parrot and so on. Although totally Indian in spirit and execution, the embroidery is reminiscent of Coptic, Italian and old English embroidery. Shilpi presents kasuti on Kanchipuram silk. And there is more... Embroidered motifs and fields offsetting block printed silks, investing them with the richness and sheen of woven cloth. Tie and dye tussars with Warli art motifs embroidered in bold running stitch. For Shilpi's Arundhati Menon, who has put 'Stitch Witchery' together, the exhibition is a way of making people aware of the country's incredible embroidery heritage, to see, feel and experience it. As she puts it, the saris may be few in number, 'but each has taken months to embroider with the painstaking dedication and innate sense of beauty and harmony which make the country's crafts and craftspersons so unique...'

Meanwhile, the invitation to be bewitched by 'Stitch Witchery' is open from July 5 at Shilpi, 1 Gee Gee Minar, 23, College Road, Nungambakkam and 29, C.P. Ramaswamy Road, Alwarpet.

PUSHPA CHARI

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