Packaged pilgrimage

PRACTISING religion, whether by holding pujas or fasting or going on pilgrimages, is fast becoming the "in" thing with "high" society, so Anju Poddar's A Journey to the Heavens could not have come at a better time - even if that was not the intention of the author. And this travelogue - an account of her trip to Mansarovar Lake and parikrama around the holy Mt. Kailash (along with three companions) comes with endorsements from big names like the Dalai Lama and Karan Singh, and is embellished with art by Husain and Laxma Goud. Unfortunately, one has always been suspicious of benediction of this kind in such books. Too frequently, the contents that follow disappoint.

Anju Poddar's travelogue works very well at the practical level. If you are planning a similar trip, preferably through the same travel agent, everything you need to know is in this book. There are detailed lists of things to carry, day-to-day and hour-by- hour itineraries, dos and don'ts, information about the perils of mountain sickness, the type of accommodation available and even useful mantras for the holy mountain and lake, all clearly and unequivocally spelt out. Which is a boon for muddleheaded travellers and organisers especially when on this kind of journey. The only thing I looked out for and couldn't find was the bottom line price tag of the trip, which, according to the author, was splendidly organised by the travel agency she employed. Also, while we are told that photography is extremely expensive nearly everywhere, we aren't told the figures. And that is important for budgeting - especially if you are a photographer. The price tag for the Government organised trip (for the year 2000) was quoted as Rs. 35,000/-, so one could guess that a trip organised by a private travel agent, and involving the hire of a Land Cruiser for the entire duration (20 days), would be considerably more. All said and done, however, the book is useful for anyone with similar resources, planning a fairly comfortable trip or trek to mountain wildernesses anywhere.

What was a little more disappointing was the "diary" part of the book. Now, diaries by definition are very private documents - but usually it is those very personal observations and thoughts that make a diary juicy and worth reading. And if you are going public, then you have to open up, even if just a little bit. Simply saying "went there", "saw that" or "it was very beautiful", or "the journey was very tiring" is not enough. Here for example, we get to know very little about the author's travelling companions - what they felt, or said, or did, or reacted, or how they all got on together. What kind of people were they? There is no conversation or dialogue at all. Even the author's own feelings of awe or spiritual upliftment are expressed in terms too familiar and cliched to move the reader. This was, after all, a once-in-a-lifetime pilgrimage; and the reader must feel suitably awed and humbled (and envious!), and involved, after reading such an account. That, alas, doesn't happen. (Heather Wood's Third Class Ticket is wonderful in this respect; Dervla Murphy is another excellent travel writer who brings her madcap journeys pulsatingly alive.)

Also, there is very little about the natural history of the area - about the plants (excepting the notorious bichu booti) and wild flowers, and insects and birds and animals (excepting the yak).

The book has been designed "scrapbook style" and is pleasantly informal in layout, with bright picture postcards (and trivia like tickets and baggage tags) scattered throughout. More importantly the "handwriting" is legible and not tiring to read.

I've never been into practising religion so cannot comment on that aspect of the book, but background information about religious tradition and of the places and its history has been given.

Certainly, a place as beautiful as Mount Kailash and Mansarovar Lake would have the power to overwhelm even an agnostic like me. If I ever get the chance to do so, (with the help of an equally well-organised travel agent), I will at least have a handy practical, if not spiritual, guide right by my side.

RANJIT LAL

A Journey to the Heavens (Mansarovar and Mt. Kailash), Anju Poddar, Samnay Publications & Co., p.104, Price not mentioned.

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