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Thursday, July 19, 2001

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Goan experience


FUN AND food. Feni and fish curry. Sun and surf. Blotchy, half- baked gora bodies and various shades of browns strewn on the beaches. Emaciated, strung out heroine chic types. Hustlers of all shades and kinds looking out for a deal. Images flash through mind rapidly at the mention of Goa. Its hard to be romantic about the present Goa, yet it is also hard to resist its magnetism. Watching sunset, sipping a cold drink on the beach, eating the catch of the day it is easy to forget the swarming chartered flight crowds and its ugly fallout.

At the very mention itself the food fest caused a flutter in me, I confess. Memories of a wonderful holiday. A chance to go nostalgic and mushy over a plate of fried calamari or crab, maybe. So there I was on the first day of the fest at Sagari, Chola Sheraton, all ready to stand up on a chair and shout viva la Goa! There were fishing nets and hammock and waiters in straw hats and most colourful shirts and shorts. But missing that night was the most vital factor, seafood. Oh, there was a lone nustychi kadi or Goan fish curry among the main courses. The others holding the flag were in the salad section, a seafood one with calamari, dried shrimp and coconut relish and a starter, fish fingers. The Executive Chef, Vijay Malhotra did promise that there would be more seafood in the following days.

Though the scant seafood presence did leave a very large void, the meat show wasn't bad at all. The chef, Sushant Naik and his team who are behind this culinary trip work on the river cruises and are in catering line too. The chicken xacuti and mutton assado were particularly delightful. The meats were cooked to perfection and the masalas never overwhelming the dish. Pork vindaloo was there in all its fiery, acidic glory. Also of interest was the tenderloin chilli fry.

The vegans didn't go unheeded. The vegetable stew, Goan style was good. The kidney beans did make a difference and reminded one of another local bean dish, feijoada. Vangy rava fried, brinjal fritters, were of uneven quality. The half-cooked thicker pieces tasted bitter. The Konkan Hindu facet of the cuisine was represented by khaat-khate and bhindi amsol, okra in coconut- kokum gravy.

The dessert section too had its ups and downs. Bibinka and coconut stuffed crepes were nice while dosh, a channa dal sweet, and doldolcoconut and jaggery halwa didn't send one into raptures. It's Rs. 425 per person for the dinner buffet. The fest is on till July 22.

MARIEN MATHEW

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