Sartorial shift

It could belong to the just-getting-built-up collection of a high-school student or the assorted closet of a hi-fashion model; it could hang with a Rs. 10,000 tag in a designer boutique or be a bargainable entity in the crowded shop front of a Pondy Bazaar by-lane. A neat version of it is the uniform for girls in most city schools. Foreigners visiting Chennai are routinely seen in it, never mind the poor fit! From the anonymous bank teller to the highly visible TV anchor, women have discarded the conventional garb to be embraced by it.

Yes, the salwar-kameez/churidar-kurta now has a regular presence in the metropolis. It is the dress of the day. But what has caused the sartorial switch and in such a mass scale?

Sankari, who is on the senior side of 45, bought her first salwar-kameez set two years ago. For her, it was sheer necessity ``I went abroad for my daughter's delivery. My daughter lives in an apartment complex with a common Laundromat. So wearing salwar- kameez was a sensible choice. I found it extremely convenient to work and travel in.'' And she is not alone.

For most people, the change of apparel was a matter of convenience. ``I made the sartorial shift at my husband's insistence,'' says Chitra Krishnaswamy, an administrative officer. ``When I pull out my gear for work in the morning I automatically go for the salwar suit. A saree takes longer to wear.'' Sharada Chandrasekar, a former executive agrees totally. ``For me, it was a natural transition from a wardrobe that was difficult to maintain to one that was user-friendly in terms of washing and pressing.'' She adds ``I also think of them as better protection.'' ``From the harsh sun?'' I ask. ``Yes. But don't you think it is safer than a figure-hugging saree and a low-cut blouse?''

Gowri, like other IT executives at Tidel Park, views the salwar- kameez as a comfortable substitute to the half-saree that teenage girls used to wear not so long ago.

``Women in the IT industry have taken to this get-up in a big way,'' she says. ``In our work place, the accent is on informality and the salwar-kameez strikes the right note. It is chic without being casual.''

Elizabeth Joseph, a Sociology lecturer at Queen Mary's College, opines ``I can think of several reasons'', as she watches students file past in freshly pressed salwar suits.

``It found ready acceptance in most homes because it drapes the contours of South Indian figures well. Also the change in the attire went hand in hand with the change in the mode of transport. Once girls began to drive two-wheelers they found it easier to navigate the vehicle wearing a salwar than a flowing saree.''

Leena, Sarala and Pramila Navroj, History undergraduates in a city college, are categorical in their reasons. ``We come from what can be called conservative families.

Our mothers wouldn't dream of wearing anything except sarees. But once we grew out of frocks, we naturally joined the salwar-kameez brigade. We find the outfit more suitable for travel in the city buses.''

Meghna Shah has an interesting point of view. ``The last 20 years saw a lot of North Indians settling down in Chennai. Their presence has brought about perceptible changes in the lifestyle of Chennaiites. Dhabas serving North Indian food, cottage cheese and cauliflowers round the year and the popularity of Hindi plays and Hindustani music are all proof of this phenomenon. I believe the dress is an off-shoot of this influence.'' And the salwar- kameez as a uniform gets a salute and gratitude from schoolgirls who breathe easy in their freedom from the tyranny of tight pinafores and knee-length skirts.

Is the saree on the way out? No way, declares Nalli Kuppuswamy during a brisk sales hour at the shop.

``I don't see that happening in the next few centuries. We opened a counter in 1989 to sell churidar material because our customers began to ask for it. Last year, we added an annexe to the shop exclusively for ready-made churidar-kurta sets. But this has made no difference to our saree sales.'' But because of its utility and cost-effectiveness the salwar-kameez will keep claiming large shelf spaces in the cupboards of Chennai women.

And will gain more followers as the generations go by.

GEETA PADMANABHAN

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