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Online edition of India's National Newspaper Monday, September 03, 2001 |
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Mixed package
Once upon a time, there was a Goan restaurant on the T.T.K Road,
called Panjim. But alas! It met with an untimely death. Now like
the phoenix, it has risen again with a few changes in the decor
as Pandiya Nadu to give us Madurai cuisine. The menu is very
similar to any Chettinad restaurant, give or take a few dishes.
But the speciality section features some interesting dishes like
karuvadu kozhambu and raktha poriyal. For starters, it was again
Gobi fry or Chicken 65 though these are not on the menu. After
that original, true-to-soil beginning things got better. The
Chicken soup (Rs.35) was passable.
The karuvadu kozhambu (Rs.55) and venthiya curry (Rs.38) were
good. Dry fish smell is not everyone's idea of appetising aroma,
but for its aficionados, a whiff is enough to make your mouth
water as mine did as soon as the curry arrived on our table. The
mutton chops (Rs.50) didn't stray from the beaten path. Besides
it was more like a mutton bone curry as the odds on finding meat
was 60-40. By the way, there was a separate bone curry on the
menu. After the mutton chops, I wonder how that would be.
Sorra puttu (Rs.55) was the other victim of maximising syndrome.
It was more of an egg podimas as there were precisely six or
seven fish flakes in the dish. The staples ordered were vegetable
kothu parotta (Rs.35) and ragi dosai (Rs.15). The first one was a
rather soggy mass and one had to peer hard to distinguish the
parotta flakes. Ragi dosa was something innovative and a must try
item.
Though the prices seemed reasonable, when the dishes are served,
you might want to change your opinion. The portions are
remarkably small and scrounging on fish and mutton is in bad
taste.
At the dessert stage, the quantity deteriorated from small to
tiny. Wheat halwa (Rs.33), the only choice of the day, was very
good. Sadly one barely tasted it. We were told that each serving
is 50-60 gms. At that rate, even after taking into account the
establishment and other sundry expenses, it would be one of the
most expensive wheat halwa ever made.
Madurai under the Pandiya rule was a land of plenty, at least
according to history books. There is still time for the local
Pandiya Nadu too to be one.
MARIEN MATHEW
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