The right ingredients

Cookbook writers had some delightful news a few months ago. The British Book Awards for Author of the Year went to cookbook writer Nigella Lawson whose comfort book compendium "How to become a Domestic Goddess" placed her on top of the list.

And whom did she displace? J. K. Rowling. The phenomenally successful creator of the Harry Potter series who had won the award the previous year had to concede the power of the cooking pan to that of the sorcerer's stone.

Throughout the world, the number of people, who watch with lip- smacking glee the chef at work on the small screen, has increased tremendously. Whether it is the famished student nibbling at his toast, the young bride who has just downloaded yet another burnt offering or the middle aged matron who frets at what went wrong with the apple pie the evening before. Admiring or envious, they are hypnotised as the smartly-clad chef slices, chops, stirs and fries. And then serves a dish fit for the gods.

As the mouth-watering vision enters their living room, even feasting their eyes on it seems as good for the viewers as eating it which perhaps explains the success of these culinary shows.

For Indian viewers, if the elegant Madhur Jaffrey set the trend, others soon followed the aromatic trail.

In Chennai, Mallika Badrinath is now the culinary queen imparting her unique homespun flavour to the art. The dozen books authored by her under various thematic heads are selling like hot cakes, her TV shows are a gourmet's delight and her ready foods business is all set to do a big take off. Heady stuff for one who practically never entered the kitchen till she got married. But, Mallika remains simple and unaffected despite the swift, sweet road to success. "I did not expect to become so successful," she admits candidly.

"The support I received from my husband, sons and other members of the family has been invaluable."

Mallika grew up in a well-to-do joint family that always employed a cook. But she graduated in Home Science which her parents thought was the best course for grooming her into an efficient housewife. Fabric painting, Sanskrit, veena and vocal music classes rounded off the education.

"My mother and aunts had a huge collection of recipes which had been tested out by the family. I had written down all the recipes in numerous notebooks," says Mallika. Marriage at 20 to a chartered accountant, who encouraged her to utilise her talent, gave her the opportunity to try these out. "There was no cook in my mother-in-law's house and her repertoire was confined to traditional Andhra fare."

Her first two books were published in 1988. "It was purely accidental. When a recipe from the notebooks turned out well, I would search for it each time I wanted to include it in the meal. So, I decided to be more organised. I began copying down the recipes under different headings. When I found I had 70-80 of them in the category of side dishes my husband and I decided to publish them."

They printed 1000 copies out of their own capital. "We knew absolutely nothing about publishing. We priced the book at just Rs.12," she laughs. When the Tamil Nadu Arya Vaisya Mahila Sabha of which she was a committee member held its annual carnival, she requested the organisers to display copies of her book for sale. " I also gave a small demonstration at the venue."

The books were snapped up, word spread and Mallika found herself busy giving demonstrations at ladies clubs and family functions.

Encouraged by the response, Mallika began publishing a book a year under a different head — vegetable dishes, egg recipes, sweets and savouries, rice varieties, snacks {hellip}

"Friends not only suggested categories but also chipped in with suggestions of recipes from Gujarat, Maharashtra, Karnataka, Punjab and so on. Each book contains 100 recipes — about 80 time-tested ones and 20 which are my own inventions obtained by varying the ingredients and the combinations. When I publish a book containing 100 recipes I try out at least 150.

Pradeep Enterprises, which she set up in 1988 along with her husband to publish her books, has today grown into a profitable concern. A year ago, Mallika began the manufacture of masala powders and `ready-to-eat' foods. She has won awards from the Government as best entrepreneur.

Mallika lists out the criteria she has followed while compiling her books, which she feels has led to their becoming so popular.

"The size is unusual. Though small and compact, the books stand out among others on display. The special stitching ensures that the page does not close easily when propped up in the kitchen. Each page has just one recipe, every step of which is spelled out clearly. Simple language is used so that even beginners and those who are not highly qualified can follow the instructions. The ingredients are not exotic but are readily available in every kitchen. Tips, hints and variations are provided throughout. I make sure that too much oil or ghee is not needed to prepare these dishes so they become part of every day fare."

Mallika feels particularly glad when those belonging to the middle-income group tell her they were able to set up catering and self-employed units by using her recipes.

If the books proved popular beyond her expectations, the TV shows brought her into every home.

"Sun TV first introduced me to viewers through a few programmes followed by `Unga Manasukku Pidichadhu Mattum'. Later, the Jaya TV invited me to conduct a culinary show every day for 10 days before the Diwali festival. This was two years ago. I demonstrated the preparation of one sweet and one savoury every day." The programme elicited such a good response that Malliika became a regular on Jaya TV. Her weekly programme `Arusuvai Neram' draws viewers of all age groups.

"The response has been beyond my dreams," says Mallika. Fan letters pile up in huge heaps and the calls come in by the hundred — from the congratulatory ones to those seeking clarifications often with their experimental pot boiling on the stove!

Mallika plans to bring out more books — on low calorie dishes, pickles and juices. Her book for diabetic patients was especially appreciated.

When asked how her shows compare with those of chefs like Sanjeev Kapoor, she laughs modestly. "They are professionals. I'm just a housewife". It is this image of a housewife — simple, approachable and skilled — that has won this cookbook writer and food show presenter so many fans and friends.

* * *

Simple recipes

Drumstick Soup

Drumsticks - 3 (cut into big pieces)

Onion - 1

Garlic - 1 flake (crushed)

Green gram dhal - 1 1/2 tbsps.

Tomato - 1 small

Coarsely crushed cumin and pepper - 1 tsp.

Salt and sugar - as required

For white sauce:

Milk - 1/2 cup

Corn flour - 1 tbsp.

Method

Steam drumsticks in pressure cooker. Scoop out the pulp. Chop onion and tomatoes finely. Pressure cook dhal with crushed garlic, onion and tomato. (Tie cumin and pepper in a muslin and put it in the dhal while cooking). Cool it and discard the spice bag. Blend it with drumstick pulp in mixer. Strain or pass through a sieve and dilute with water. Make white sauce with corn flour and milk and cool it down. Mix it with cold soup, dilute with water and then reheat the soup with enough salt and sugar. Serve hot with soup sticks.

Cauliflower Biriyani

Basmati rice - 1 cup

Onions big - 2

Cauliflower - 1 medium sized

Green chillies - 6

Fresh thick curds - 1/4 cup

Oil - 3 tbsp

Fresh grated coconut - 2 tbsp

Coriander-cumin powder - 1/2 tsp

Salt as required

Ghee - 2 tsp

Cashew nuts - 2 tbsp

Curry leaves - 1 small bunch

Lemon - 1

Amti masala (or curry masala powder) - 1 tsp

Mustard seeds - 1/2 tsp

Turmeric powder - 1/4 tsp

Asafoetida - a pinch

Method

Wash and soak rice for 15 minutes. Cut onions into one inch long pieces. Wash and cut cauliflower into florets. Heat oil and add mustard seeds.

When it crackles, add cut green chillies, asafoetida, curry leaves and cashew nuts. Add cut onions and cauliflower, and fry till it becomes soft.

Drain water from rice and fry with the florets for a few minutes. Add two cups of boiling water with salt and turmeric powder. When it starts boiling, add beaten curds, coriander-cumin powder and masala powder.

Cover the vessel with a tight lid and reduce flame. Cook for 15 to 20 minutes. Before removing from the fire add ghee. Garnish with grated coconut and coriander leaves. Serve along with a piece of lemon.

KAUSALYA SANTHANAM

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