Keeping traditions alive

WHEN Naeem Khan came to the United States in 1978, he brought a unique sensibility of Indian hand workmanship which began more than a century ago in Mumbai and continues to this day. Khan, the grandson of Shamshuddin Khan, founder of S.U. Zariwala in Mumbai, was born in Barielly, Uttar Pradesh, and received a degree in economics before the siren-song of fashion lured him to the U.S. and in a roundabout way, back into the family business.

"In my grandfather's day, the metal threads, sequins and beads used for embroidery and appliques were made of 24-carat gold, sterling silver or silk. There were no plastic, no moulds, and no machines grinding out mass-produced, ready-made and embellishments. Everything was done by hand," explains Khan over iced chai, the summer's trendiest drink, served in his showroom high above Seventh Avenue, in the centre of New York's garment district. "Today, whether in my own collections or working with other designers, the same is true. At the couture level, designers only want the finest materials and workmanship; they want what sets them apart."

It was Khan's knowledge and respect for workmanship, that caught the eye of his first employer in the U.S., the very formidable American designer Halston. It was not long before the young apprentice was overseeing the design and production of all of the embroidery for the famed designer. It naturally follows that Khan looked to his craftsmen in his homeland to create most of it.

As Halston was the darling of the fashion, social and cultural world, his young apprentice quickly learned the ropes in the couture, theatrical and ready-to-wear collections. In 1983, Khan opened his own women's design company, Riazee, a collection which focusses on elegant evening wear. The launch was extremely successful; booking over one million dollars in its first season.

Today, Khan designs Riazee, as well as collections for private clients and labels for elite boutiques and stores across the U.S.. He also works with Europe's haute couture designers to create intricate, elaborate and elegant embroideries through an equally intricate and elaborate network of craftsmen throughout India who work under the auspices of the Surzarila factory in Mumbai.

Khan has kept a low-profile while moving among some of the fashion world's highest profile names such as Giorgio Armani, Jean Paul Gautier, Valentino, Ungaro and Jil Sander. He likes it that way. Even in his newest venture, GNK Collections, he lets his Paris-New York based socialite partner Susan Gutfreund take the spotlight while he travels back and forth to India every two months working with craftsmen to recreate customised historical fabrics.

"For the GNK Collection, there are 30 embroidery developers based in Mumbai. They, in turn, employ some 2,500 craftsmen all over India," explains Khan, lifting bamboo baskets from their places on the floor and spilling their contents on to a large white table. "All of the fabrics are made, dyed, printed and embellished in India. The intention is to keep these kinds of very fine, hand workmanship alive. It is in my blood and my soul. I want to honour my heritage. I want to take the work to the next level and to bring the talent of these Indian artisans to the attention of the world.

"Look at this extraordinary workmanship," he says with pride, holding up the most delicate organza panels appliques with flowers whose petals flutter in the breeze. "And, this," lifting an exact replica of the needlework of a Mrs. Delaney, an 18th Century Irish woman known for her skill and taste. French toile due Jouy, Chinese silks, early American cottons, and a maharaja's treasure trove of Indian velvets, taffetas and block prints abound. "All are embellished in one form or another with stitchery, beading, knotting, netting and applique."

Each can be customised to work with any decor from a palace in England, hacienda in Mexico, or pillow covers for a sofa. "We can change the colour, the threads and the beads, to make the fabric a very personal statement of the owner's taste," says Khan. "That is the beauty of working with fine craftsmen who can make a yard or a zillion yards of a fabric. This is not about mass production. But it is not elitist.

"The family, it seems, remains, one way or another, in the family business," says Khan, piling finely-crafted fabric sample on upon sample. "My brothers are talented. Azeem is a leading designer in Mumbai. Fahim hands all the production of these fabrics. And Wassim is in the entertainment business," explains Khan. "My wife Ranjana was a well-known model in India prior to our marriage, motherhood and becoming a marathon runner. Now that our boys are in school, she has joined me in the home furnishings venture and is looking to expand the business into to new areas. "Hopefully, my sons Zaheen and Shariq, will follow in the family business," muses Khan as he sits among the mountains of fabrics piled exotic bazaar-style, "though at 15 and 13 they are more interested in soccer and cricket."

DIANE SUSTENDAL

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