Fresh from the coast

THESE ARE difficult days. First, there was the September 11 tragedy in the U.S. Then the earth shook. It's definitely time for some comfort food.

The news item on Monday last about the fallout of trawling on Chennai coast could not have come at a worse time. There has been a steady decrease in the catch in the last decade, says the report. Since I have adopted the `live for the moment' policy in the wake of the impending doom, the decision to run to a seafood restaurant was instantaneous.

Coastline in the Kaaraikudi complex on Dr. Radhakrishna Salai, did offer some solace. There is just enough space to accommodate eight or nine tables. Cracking of shells rings loud and heaps of empty shells and other remains leave the tables. The place is for those who take their fish seriously. The menu does not have a single meat or vegetarian dish even as a token. Our soup, crab cream (Rs.50) is not a good point to begin the meal. The crab stock has been so diluted that it is almost impossible to savour any of it in the thick gruel. The bits of crabmeat in it are the lone proof of identity. The second starter, crumb fried prawn (Rs. 95) is a beauty. Coastline may have its faults, but freshness of the catch is not in doubt. Soft, moist and pink, the prawns in crunchy crusts go down real easy. Grilled veral fish (Rs.250) from the restaurant's specialty selection too is good. Though the grilled fish looked and tasted more like a fried one, these silly details recede from mind as you take the first mouthful. It's a dream. Grilled, fried, poached and steamed — if they come this good, anything is fine.

Prawn pepper sauce (Rs.115) gets by merely on the grace of prawns. The sauce, another thick goo, is very forgettable. Coastline seafood biriyani (Rs.115) is tasty. Desserts are confined to ice creams and apple pie, chocolate souffle and caramel custard. A litchi sundae (Rs.65) is plain vanilla ice cream with canned fruit. Caramel custard (Rs.30) too is just average. The prices do tend to be on the higher side. Still, the catch is fresh.

MARIEN MATHEW

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