Authentic flavours

"YOU VOTED for Andhra, we made it happen," says the leaflet. The Samskruthi restaurant of the Hotel Ambica Empire Best Western, on 100 ft. Road, Vadapalani, is where the metamorphosis happened.

Earlier, the restaurant served both South Indian and North Indian vegetarian dishes. The change is believed to have been based on the feedback from more than 20,000 guests. So should not we check out whether the majority is right?

The change, though almost imperceptible, can be observed by a frequent visitor. Apart from a few touches here and there, the overall effect is cheery. The details of the thali, available for lunch and dinner, are kept on each table.

In its new avatar, Samskruthi has shed its pure vegetarian tag. So the a la carte menu is extensive. Indeed, it was with trepidation that I looked at the menu. Images of Guntur chilli before my mind's eye were followed by a raging inferno in the stomach and antacid bottles and glassful of curd. Andhra Samskruthi not just negated my fears, but has even emboldened me to try more of this wonderful cuisine.

From the starters, ulli paya pakodi or onion pakoda (Rs.65) and leeta veta vepudu or simply mutton fry (Rs.120) to the dessert, every single dish struck the right chord. The mutton fry fit the description on the menu card which read "tender pieces of mutton fried". Guthi venkaya (Rs.75) was a clear winner. It is difficult to drum up much enthusiasm for brinjals, but this one was superb.

Tomato kodi iguru (Rs. 120) was a worthy match to the brinjal curry spice-by-spice, flavour-by-flavour. Kharivepaku rice (Rs.60) too was tasty. The thali was thoroughly enjoyable. The veg thali is priced Rs.125 and the non- veg one with just one meat or fish dish, at Rs.150.

The standard pappu or dhal, veg vepudu, koora (sautied vegetable), pulusu or curry, lime rice and poori were part of the thali.

The dessert list, however, was rather limited. Pesara pappu halwa (Rs.50) was the only local offering.

The rest were the time-tested ones — gulab jamun, carrot halwa, rasmalai. The moong dal halwa was more like a thick payasam and could have done with a wee bit more jaggery.

At last, Samskruthi has found its niche. With all those yummy podis, pickles and filling thalis, it has the makings of a thumping success.

MARIEN MATHEW

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