The Hindu : When the `toddy culture' changes

Online edition of India's National Newspaper
Sunday, Jun 23, 2002

Southern States

Southern States - Kerala

When the `toddy culture' changes

By Ignatius Pereira

KOLLAM JUNE 22. Expectations of those who stood in queue in front of Excise offices for several days in March for the licence to run toddy shops have been belied. Toddy shops have already turned into concerns which can no longer boast of being avenues for minting money.

Those who managed to obtain the licence feel that they have burnt their fingers. Until last year the general notion was that having the licence to operate a toddy shop means getting financially secured in life. That notion has changed under the new abkari policy of the UFD Government.

The sales have gone down drastically as there are less takers for the pure toddy that is being sold now. The shops which used to register over Rs. 40,000 sales daily have to be satisfied with less than Rs. 2,000 these days.

The toddy being served now is not the kind which large sections of regular drinkers need. They expected the treat to be the spirit-added-essence-manufactured stuff which can give them the much sought after kick at the end of the day at a rate cheaper than the IMFL or hooch.

In such a situation, the licensees wonder about the grounds behind the hue and cry raised over the toddy policy. The state of affairs in the toddy sector indicates that if the situation continues, there would not be any need for a formal toddy policy in the coming years because there would be hardly anyone to apply for a licence.

The pure sap from the coconut palm has no regular customers these days. The truth is that the `toddy culture' cultivated over the past few years is in sharp contrast to what has been introduced from this year. Those days it used to be the notorious money spinner `kalapaani', the artificially made toddy, and the stuff attracted crowds at any time of the day. For the contractors it meant huge profits as the manufacturing cost of spurious toddy was much less than the sap supplied by toddy tappers. Moreover, the demand was for the spurious toddy and its addiction properties ensured a fine flow of regular customers to each shop.

Now, it is just for fancy that many go to toddy shops and enjoy the drink. The pure ethnic drink was a luxury item of sorts till the past many years as it was only the spurious stuff which was available. Pure toddy could be tasted only if one had the right contacts. That situation created a craze for pure toddy and it is that desire which is now being fulfilled by the majority who go to the toddy shops. But that craze is not turning into a habit or an addiction and this is what worries the licensees. The much-expected regular drinkers seem to have deserted the toddy shops which are unable to serve the kick giving stuff.

The situations have made toddy business unprofitable. Most licensees say it is altogether a loss. The daily turnover is not sufficient to meet the establishment expenses, especially when many of the shops had to accommodate those employees who had lost their jobs when around 2,000 shops were closed early this year.

Meanwhile, under the excuse of being unable to survive with the sale of toddy alone, some of the shops have started spirit sales with the connivance of sections of the bureaucracy. This year's pathetic toddy shop turnovers have even disappointed a section in the Excise Department as it has resulted in losing their under-the-table income. Some of the licensees say that such sections are even encouraging spirit sales from toddy shops as that is the only way to ensure the extra income.

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When the `toddy culture' changes