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Supreme skill of Chola sculptors
The intricate sculptures are a connoisseur's treat ... — Pics. by Rupa Gopal.
KUMBAKONAM, IN Thanjavur district, has definite magic — a magic endowed by the towering presence of many ancient temples, built over 1000 years ago. Temple bells and holy chanting mingle in the air already redolent with baskets of fresh flowers, fruit and vegetables — bounty of the Cauvery delta.
Possibly much less visited than other temples in the town, Nageswaran temple, where Kumbhabishekam was held recently, is unique. It is a place where devotion, mythology and aesthetics form an ideal mix. Built around 1005 A.D. it is an outstanding symbol of Chola sculpture.
The main sanctum has a large lingam and legend states that the temple got its name because of a snake found worshipping the lingam. The front tower is of moderate height, with very lovely sculptures. A peculiarity of the temple is that the Sun's rays fall directly on the lingam, every year, for three days, from April 14, the traditional Tamil New Year day. Crowds gather during this phenomenon, as the deity's powers, it is said, are further enhanced then.
Going round the temple prakaram, one comes across some of the most splendid architectural sculptures ever seen. Niches in the outer wall of the sanctum contain large, graceful figures in standing postures — both male and female. Their beauty, hairstyle, attire, jewellery and shape are all examples of the supreme skill of the Chola sculptor. These are not figures of gods, but those of the wealthy patrons of the temple. A fabulous Brahma and Ardhanariswara are found on the other side of the outer wall.
Exquisite carving in stone ... at the Nageswaran temple.
Smaller sculptures can be seen along the temple main walls. A mesmerising Goddess Durga is housed in a separate shrine here.
Further down the compound on the left, is a huge mandapam complete with giant chariot wheels in stone. Mythology states that the entire mandapam descended from heaven, on a chariot drawn by elephants. One has to climb the steps of the chariot to the shrine of Nataraja and Sivakami — said to be one of the loveliest bronze images that exist. Lord Siva is seen dancing vigorously here, and Sivakami is shown keeping tala (the beat) for His cosmic dance.
In the days of royal rule, there existed a secret tunnel between this temple and the Thanjavur palace, to enable the king and his family to worship Lord Nageswaran in privacy. The passage is now blocked due to the roads dug up for construction. A temple visited and sung about by even the Azhwars, Nageswaran temple is one of its kind. It draws many foreigners keen to interpret the rock wall edicts and study the sculptures.
RUPA GOPAL
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