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Celebrated by saints
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During his visit to the artistic temples on the Kumabakonam-Tiruvaiyaru route, PRADEEP CHAKRAVARTHY'S first halt is Thiruvalanchuzhi.
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Pillars embellished with stuccos ... Thiruvalanchuzhi temple.
THE KUMBAKONAM - Tiruvaiyaru road is a veritable treasure trove of temples. Each little town is celebrated in song and legend and has a massive temple. While the condition of the temple is not always ideal, they all offer a spot of peace and serenity.
Leaving Kumbakonam early morning, I passed four km, crossing Swamimalai quickly, and reached Thiruvalanchuzhi (the signboard bore the more exotic sounding Tiruvalanzuli!). Incidentally, a loop in the Cauvery gave the village its name. Exotic or not the temple definitely had an atmosphere.
Crossing the towering Rajagopuram, before the next gopuram, was the temple tank on the one side and groves of coconut trees. Adjectives cannot describe the sweetness of the bird song that was aided by a cool early morning breeze.
Crossing under the next gopuram with impressive 17-18th Century stucco figures, I reached the Vellai Vinayagar shrine that the temple is most famous for.
The Ganesha is said to be made of sea froth and consecrated by the Devas. Only white camphor is applied on the idol.
As famous as the temple were the circular pillars with the gopuram motifs repeated on them. Crossing another gateway embellished with stucco figures one reaches the shrine of Valanchuzhinathar or Kapardaneswarar.
Though it was early in the morning, the shrine was locked and deserted. That gives one the chance to sit by the statues of the Nayanmars and recall their verses in praise. Sambandar (Circa AD 600-700) also sings of the beauty of the temple: "Thiruvalanchuzhi has groves where, the fragrance of the blossoms, compete with the humming of the bees. Devotees here sing your praise,
Why have you stopped accepting our offerings my Lord?" (Second Thirumurai 2.1)
In another padhigam in the same Thirumurai, Sambandar sings of his great fortune in singing of the Lord in this temple. In the padhigam in the third Thirumurai, he promises redemption from worries for not only those who recite those verses on the Lord but the same good fortune for the relatives of those who recite it! Thirunavukkarasar has sung two songs on the Lord here extolling his acts of heroism and beauty. Arunagirinathar also sings of the Murugan in this temple.
Crossing to the shrine of Periyanayagi Amman, who legends say was married to Siva here, one admires the clever use of the land in the temple.
There was a patch of ripening corn whose grains glinted in the morning sun. The Amman shrine too was closed but again it is time to admire the beautiful Nayak paintings on the walls set in a background of electrifying blue.
Figures of women holding flowers/birds and even playing instruments alternated with the depictions of the various incarnations of Uma. The faces and the attention to detail were all reminiscent of the Thanjavur painting style.
The prakaram ceiling also had geometrical designs, which have been eroded. An intriguing, unfinished (badly damaged?) composition was a pictorial representation of the various important Siva temples on either bank of the Cauvery. The artist had even mentioned the names of the temples!
Inscriptions of the Chola period speak of land given for festivals and for lighting of lamps. In June 1051 were given a few bronzes. Ornaments were also given by Rajaraja I, his queen Lokamadevi and aunt Kundavai.
The Bhairava shrine itself was built by him, as was the enlargement of the Vinayagar shrine.
The wealth of the temple had increased in other more curious means. In 1265, the land that belonged to a couple who had fled the village due to non-payment of taxes, was given to the temple.
The depopulation of a nearby village also added land to the temple. Gifts from the less royal likes of horse dealer Govindan of Orutalaipalli is recorded. Inscriptions also record rebuilding after a fire in the 12th century.
It was difficult to think of this temple as having been a hub of great activity once upon a time.
Somehow sitting on the ledge of the mandapam and seeing the sun's rays slowly creep up the pillars to the background of birdsong made the pressure of history rest lightly. I savoured the moment of peace and calm before I went my way...
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