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Praised by Azhwar and Nayanmar
The gopuram of Lord Saranathan temple at Thirucherai.
THE AFTERNOON is hot and the parched lands on either side of the road do little to help. The bed of the Cauvery is completely dry. It is certainly not the picture Thirumangai Azhwar, one of the 12 saints who collectively sang 4,000 verses in praise of Vishnu, saw when he traversed this road circa eighth century.
Passing by and singing of Thiruvinnagaram, popularly known as Oppiliappan Koil and Nachiar Koil he reaches Thirucherai (15 km from Kumbakonam) and says, ``Reclined on the coils of the serpent, Amidst the deep ocean My Lord is like the worthiest gem... He is also in Thirucherai, amidst the lakes with groves humming with bees, amidst the lakes teeming with many hued water lilies, Those who serve him, even think of him They are my masters, and my love is for them.— Periya Thirumozhi (7.4.7.)
The beauty of the ten verses rests in content and in thought.
In content, the description of the town, the groves where the humming of the bees rivals the minstrels singing their songs, the mansions are so tall that they seem to play with the moon — all these speak of bygone periods of wealth.
In thought, Azhwar speaks of his admiration and reverence not so much for the Lord but for those who serve him, a feeling of humility worthy of emulation. His concluding stanza encapsulates this sentiment best. This garland by Kalikanri Parakalan is on the Lord at Thirucherai.
It's on a town where ``the swans imitate the women's gait And rest under a mango tree when tired and defeated... Listen well devotee, Offer this garland of verse to the Lord's golden feet And fold your hands when you do so!" — (Periya Thirumozhi 7.4.10.)
Azhwar was Nilan, a bandit before reforming his ways and becoming an ardent devotee and traveller.
The temple, is though simple in style, faces a large well-maintained tank.
Legend has it that Brahma used the mud of this tank to make a pot to store the Vedas during the primordial deluge when all other attempts had failed.
Crossing the two gopurams and the mandapam one reaches the sanctum. The Moolavar is impressive and majestic. Equally so are Kaveri and Markandeyar on either side.
Thirucherai is known as the Pancha Sara (essence) Kshetram. The Lord, Saranathan, is accompanied by Sara Naayaki, Kaveri, Sri and Bhoomi Devis and Nila Devi. Kaveri is said to have been betrothed to the Lord and has her own temple near the tank as well.
Sriram Bhattar's beautiful rendition of the pasurams lent special divinity to the ambience. The bronze images of deities are exquisite. The attention to the locks of hair and garments while sculpting is breathtaking.
The story goes that during the Nayak times Minister Narasa Boopalar kept a few stones of every consignment that was meant for the king's project in Mannargudi and thereby had the temple renovated.
The king Azhagiya Manavalan was enraged when he heard of it but was apparently pacified and probably gifted the outstanding images of Rajagopalaswami as in the Mannargudi temple.
"Come for the festival in January and look at the lovely temple chariot and the Hanuman temple", The Bhattar said.
Relief from debts
The Senneriyappar- Gnanavalli Ambal Sivan temple, in Thirucherai (15km. From Kumbakonam) is now famous as a place for those who are affected by debts.
The temple has little architectural significance and to one's disappointment the bronzes are stored elsewhere.
There is little to "see" but the environs are quiet and the priest's puja has a calming effect. The temple has been praised by both Thirugnanasambandar and Thirunavukkarasar in their hymns. Known as Chetrur in ancient times, the town is called Cherai in both the Vaishnavaite and Saivite hymns. Legends have it that the Lord bestowed great boons on Markandeya Rishi here.
Inscriptions from Kulotunga Chozhan's reign record land grants for the annual festival where the deities were taken for sacred ablutions on the riverbank.
Thirunavukkarasar sings in praise of this temple in the fourth and fifth Thirumurai.
In the fifth he places complete faith and asks the doubting devotee, "So what if the skies don't shower us with rain? So what if the earth beneath us rumbles and shakes? So what if peerless kings go astray? Our Lord in Cherai, surrounded by fertile fields... He will protect us. So why fear devotee?" — Song 77, Verse 6.
Sambandar, in the third Thirumurai, praises the beauty of the Lord and concludes: "With his hands on the slender waist of Uma, Our Lord is pleased to hear the recitation of the Vedas. These songs are sung on Thirucherai by Sambandar of unblemished reputation. Sing them, and you will watch your worries vanish!" — Song 86, Verse 11.
It was Pradhosham day and devotees were trickling in. I spent a few more minutes inside the shrine and retraced my way back to the main road and to Kumbakonam from thereon.
PRADEEP CHAKRAVARTHY
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