Grandeur amidst ruins
K. RAVI
|
In Hampi, barring a few temples, the shrines stand as monuments not as places of worship.
|
The principal tower of Virupaksha temple
If connoisseurs of ancient temple architecture and monuments want to visit their favourite heritage sites, they need to chalk out an elaborate itinerary as such spots are located in different parts of the country. But, for those who desire to see temple architecture, which incorporates the style of the great Pallavas, Cholas, Hoysalas and the Indo-Saracenic designs at one place, Hampi is the destination.
Surrounded by endless rocky hills and fortifications, Hampi might have been a paradise of sculptors of yesteryear.
Hampi, the celebrated capital of the Vijayanagar empire, and declared World Heritage area, now stands as a site of ruins, spread over 444 sq. km., consisting of seven villages.
The 64-pillar mantap on the banks of the Tungabhadra at Anegundi,
According to the Hampi World Heritage area Management Authority (HWHMA), the Archaeological Survey of India has under its control 58 monuments that include the Vittala temple, the Krishna temple, the Hazara Ramachandra shrine, the Achutharaya temple and the Lotus Mahal. The other monuments are under the control of the Karnataka State Archaeological department.
Cause of the ruin
If time and the vagaries of climate have taken a toll on other heritage sites, in the case of Hampi, built during the 15th and the 16th centuries, it was vandalism perpetrated by the Muhammadan kings of Deccan, who unitedly crushed the Vijayanagar dynasty, that caused the ruin. After the defeat of the Vijayanagar empire, the capital Hampi resembled a ghost city, which was destroyed by the Muhammadan kings systematically for nearly five months. Using fire, sword, crowbars and axes they carried on the operation destruction.
Barring a few temples, most of the shrines now only stand as monuments not as places of worship as the idols of deities were either thrown out or destroyed.
The stone car carrying the idol of Garuda in front of the Vittala temple,
In the famous Vittala temple, visitors are allowed to walk inside the shrine with footwear, as there is no idol inside the temple.
This is the case in most other temples like Krishna temple and Chandramowliswara temple.
The ornate musical pillars of Vittala temple,
The Mahamandapa is a beautiful specimen of temple architecture that incorporates the Chola style.
The ornate pillars each comprising several columns, produces sapta swara when tapped.
In front of the temple is a stone-car with gorgeous wheels being pulled by two elephants.
This reminds one of the Darasuram temple of the Chola dynasty in Tamil Nadu, where the Agramandapa looks like a chariot with decorated wheels, being pulled by caparisoned galloping elephants.
The oldest shrine in Hampi is the Virupaksha temple, which according to the ASI existed even before the founding of the Vijayanagar kingdom. Later, additions were made by the Vijayanagar kings.
The Chandramouliswara temple in a dilapidated state
While the 50-metre-high principal tower of the temple is a true symbol of Vijayanagar temple architecture, another tower clearly depicts the intricate Hoysala style.
A main feature of this temple is that deities are intact and worship is going on. Though a select group of monuments is under the protection and management by the ASI and the Karnataka State Archaeological department, the need for redefinition of the heritage of the Hampi arose and a report was prepared by Prof. Nalini N. Thakur, Hampi Heritage team, in January 2005.
Prof. Thakur in her report said there was a need to re-nominate the Hampi group of monuments in the category of the cultural landscape at a later date.
The `Nava Brindavan.'
The JSW Steel in Bellary district has launched a Rs.2.3-crore project to conserve the dilapidated Chandramowliswara shrine.
Anegundi village, housing parts of heritage monuments, has small thatched houses well protected by hills with the Tungabhadra running towards the south and the east in the fortified nucleus of the old town. Sri Ranganatha temple, Gagan Mahal, Lotus Mahal, 64-pillar mantapa and Nava Brindavana are located here.
The only easy transport facility to Anegundi, Hospet and other villages is the coracle, which takes people to the other side across the Tungabhadra. An incomplete bridge lies across the river. Following protests from environmentalists the work has been stopped midway.
The Anegundi residents show no awareness of preserving the monuments. In fact, many of them have converted either mantapas or temple courtyards into dwellings.
In the Ranganatha temple and the Virupaksha shrine, four or five families live on the premises. Inside the temple, a post-office is also located. Nava Brindavan, managed by a private trust, has no protection except a guard who occasionally guides visitors to the site. It would be better if it is brought under the control of the ASI and iron gates are fixed as it attracts a steady stream of pilgrims every day.
Printer friendly
page
Send this article to Friends by
E-Mail
Friday Review
Bangalore
Chennai and Tamil Nadu
Delhi
Hyderabad
Thiruvananthapuram
