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Moving style across stormy seas
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Black coats, chiffon and satin dresses ... the picture of perfect style. But, come 2004, these fabulous fashion fits may not be shown in and introduced to the world from Paris, the `citadel of fad and chic'. GAUTAMAN BHASKARAN on Chanel's plans to hop across the Atlantic.
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IT is often believed that when the world is down politically or economically, fashion is up. Women, and even men distract themselves to the point of fantasy.
The other day, when models wore Chanel and paraded not just on the catwalk but through a rose garden designed by the Parisian fashion house's chief designer, Karl Lagerfeld, it was dream all right. For, here was a stylist who is known to invent, well, adventure and escapade, with the help of his clothes.
At the core of Lagerfeld's couture collection this season is the classic Chanel suit, high waisted with the effect of a corset. Or, the jacket which comes as a tight cardigan with long sleeves.
In the evening wear, Chanel's shoulder gowns, with swoops of black and white beading, and shimmering gold sequin dress seem almost ethereal. The black opera coat and the white wedding dress come as the last word in glitzy appeal.
Although Chanel is one of the few couture houses that actually makes a profit from these intricately designed handmade garments, which carry minimum price tags in the thousands, Lagerfeld fed his loyal clients, very cleverly one would say, with plenty of affordable, though typically elegant and naughty, outfits.
Black coats, delicate sheer blouses in white chiffon and satin dresses in gold, silver, pale pink and lilac completes the picture of perfect style.
But, come 2004, these fabulous fashion fits may not be shown in and introduced to the world from Paris, still considered the unique citadel of fad and chic. Chanel plans to move to New York, which along with Milan and Paris has been part of the triangle of this trade.
A challenge... couture must remain very exceptional and exclusive.
There is a feeling in Chanel that Paris, once the centre of handmade creativity, is now polluted by pręt-a-porter or mass-produced labels. Couture must remain very exceptional and exclusive, and given the current trends of economic downturn and people's racing-against-time lifestyle, this kind of styling, involving elaborate workmanship and several client sittings, seems to be hitting a hard wall.
Yet, couture has a passionate fan following: movie stars and the wives of Wall Street businessmen, among others, who buy though watered down versions of the garments seen on the ramp.
Lagerfeld understands all these. One cannot forget that it was this German designer who dragged Chanel screaming into the 1980s, bewitching the house with the invaluable grains he picked as a child. His parents taught him some lessons. "The great thing about them was that I could do what I wanted to," Karl had once said.
Mademoiselle Chanel
His work ethic came from his father, who was a committed businessman, though very old. When Karl was 20, he was 80, almost from another age. His mother was more like him, witty and amusing, but her relationship with her husband was strained.
Lagerfeld was unhappy at times with the home front, but he tried to forget it by plunging obsessively into painting and reading. He grew into a prodigious sketcher, and was fascinated by clothes.
Barely into his twenties, Karl was hired by Chloe, where he became the main designer. It took him two more decades to get into the ocean called Chanel, nay the ocean termed fashion.
He changed the House, as some say, beyond recognition from Madame Coco Chanel's vision. "What I like most about fashion is change. Change also means that what we do today may be worthless tomorrow, but we have to accept that because we are in fashion. One fine morning, the women may wake up and decide that the style to which they were accustomed has become something that they hate ... " Karl's most memorable quote.
True to this, he has never stood still, moving from mini-skirts to no skirts at all ... from scuba dolls to motorcycle moles...
Karl Lagerfeld
Chanel's idea of crossing the Atlantic may be in weave and warp with Lagerfeld's principal of not letting the moss get the better of you under your soles.
But Paris is angry. It feels that Karl and Chanel owe their phenomenal success to this city by the Seine. In fact, it has been unprecedented. Chanel can live forever in Parisian environ. But, will it?
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