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Wheels of misfortune
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The Mahatma's favourite fabric, khadi that was once a sign of patriotism, is today struggling to find its place in the modern world due to faulty policies and lack of patronage.
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"WHY do I wear khadi?'' asks Justice S. Mohan (retired), somewhat agitated. "I do it in the spirit of swadeshi. Khadi gives the rural women a honourable livelihood and is based on Gandhiji's principle that one lives by one's own labour."
Krishnaswamy Reddiar, the 89-year old retired judge and a veteran Gandhian wears khadi clothes woven at the Thiruchengodu Gandhi Ashram. Former Governor Fatima Beevi is another khadi user and so are scores of Chennaiites.
It was during Diwali, 1957, that Chief Minister Kamaraj opened the Khadi Gramodyog Bhavan (KGB) on Anna Salai. From the thick-textured Kamaraj shirt (no collar) for Rs. 2.50 to the fine 500 counts cloth spun on multiple-spindles (Rs. 415 per metre), khadi has climbed a steady progress chart. Dyeing was introduced 30 years ago and hand printing, bedsheet weaving and silk threads followed.
"Khadi silk started as ahimsa silk," explains T. Mohan, manager, KGB. ``Our silk is unalloyed and pure as is the silver in the zari."
The latest, however is `polyvastra' the wrinkle-free cotton-polyester blend and the colours are guaranteed. Totally handmade, khadi is eco-friendly too. The cloth being porous, it is highly recommended by doctors for the sultry Chennai weather. Above all, when you wear khadi, you wear a piece of history.
Our national garment is now at a crossroads. Its Rs. 6-crore retail turnover is in the danger of being written off. Ironically, the mill cloth against which the Mahatma started the khadi movement remains its rival. Only that the mills are now owned by Indians.
Being labour intensive, khadi suffers from high production costs. Spinning and weaving depend on the capacity of the worker. A sari takes up to a week to make. The 30 per cent rebate given by the Khadi Commission (all India) and the Board (Tamil Nadu) ensures that the cloth remains viable and the cost is not passed on to the buyers.
Venkata Narayana, director, Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC), elaborates. "The State Government has to pitch in a 10 per cent concession to the 20 per cent allotted by the Centre to all products sold by Khadi and Sarvodaya Sangams. But its resolve to extend this largesse only to goods made in Tamil Nadu has had a negative impact on sales. The customer turns away when he finds the cloth he chooses has a lower rebate. The rebate policy is uniform in other States."
"Since 1997, the State Government has rescinded reimbursement of the rebate. With this amount, we could have tripled employment. Our working capital is seriously affected, threatening production."
According to some KVIC staff, a chain reaction has started in the rural khadi units in the State — no increment to the Sarvodaya Sangh workers, no daily wages to poor weavers, weavers moving to construction work, suicides etc.
In a classic standoff, the Commission wrote to the Board in September this year listing its demands:
* The ceiling of the Rs.5 crore-allotment for certified KVI institutions should be removed.
* The State Government rebate for khadi should be uniform for all cloth whether manufactured in Tamil Nadu or other States.
* Since rebate claims are audited by both KVIC and the State Government's local audit authority, re-auditing by the Board must be withdrawn.
* The pending rebate amount of Rs. 43.31 crores must be released at once to augment the working capital of the khadi producers.
S. Sivakumar, joint director and G. Lakshmanan, deputy director (KVIB), defend the Board's stand. ``We have reports of corrupt practices by some Sangams,'' they contend. ``The State audit team has no technical member. So we would like an inspector to visit the units and certify that the capacity they claim is technically feasible. Anyway, we have released Rs. 5-crore pre-audit compensation to maintain production and hope that the Margin Money Scheme that helps weavers get bank loans is successful."
Their stand is firm on the issue of rebate. ``In Tamil Nadu promotion of khadi is a departmental activity. We have a strong organisation and our aim is to promote employment in rural areas. Why should we extend our rebate to products of other States?"
In this entire muddle there is still hope with the likes of Vijay Viswanathan giving this traditional fabric a contemporary look. A fashion designer and image consultant, his outlet, `Preyasi' at Spencer Plaza stocks fashionable khadi outfits. "Khadi's smooth texture, wonderful grey base and a breathable quality makes it an excellent fabric to work on," he says. He took his proposal of reinventing khadi to suit modern tastes, to a product development meet of the Sarvodaya Sangams at the Weavers' Service Centre. One among the 175 sangams that participated decided to hire the designer to give visibility to its indigenous product.
Vijay dyed the material in a range of colours (natural vat dyes, no naphtha), gave stylish cuts and embellished them with embroidery. The result — khadi with a wider appeal.
Meanwhile, Mohan and Pandarinathan of KGB offered some suggestions to market the products better.
* A research and development wing to create new patterns and colours.
* An advertisement budget as khadi is sold on a `no profit, no loss' basis.
* Grant to weavers for experimenting with new designs.
* Government and school uniforms made of khadi.
* Setting up khadi units in the most backward areas.
GEETA PADMANABHAN
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