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Coconut cuisine
COCONUT LAGOON, the latest addition in the Amaravathi complex on the Cathedral Road makes an attempt to bring the seaside sorcery to the city. Though it claims to feature the entire west coast, the Kerala cuisine is dominant here. From the decor to the dessert, the Malayali stamp is unmistakable.
The Mangalorean and Goan cuisines have merely a token presence. The Kozhi chukka (Rs.65) and the Goan Veg pri pri (Rs.45) made an auspicious beginning. The chicken was simply scrumptious. A delicious tango of coconut oil and curry leaves. The veg starter never reached the same heights, but did put up a decent fight. Between the Stuffed crab (Rs.65), Goan again, and Ulli theeyal, it was difficult to choose. Both were very good. The Mangalorean Addu gassi or mutton curry (Rs.60) too was nice. But nothing of the brilliance of theeyal or the chicken.
The Sannas (Rs.20) was a let down. It was dense and tasted more like idli than that airy, delicate wonder of Mangalore. The Idiyappams (Rs.25) were okay.
It was a payasam parade in the end with a lone Bibinca holding the Goan flag. And it was here that the Malayali touch went awry. The Palada prathaman (Rs.40) was an insipid porridge. To make things worse it was not even sweet. The ginger flavouring in the Oran (moong dal) payasam was a wee bit overdone. Though better than the palada, this too wasn't sweet enough.
The prices and portions are reasonable. Except for the dessert selection, which could use some improvement, Coconut Lagoon has everything going its way.
MARIEN MATHEW
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