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Contemporary classics

The summer collection at Kamal Traders is a blend of traditional and trendy in cut, fabric and style.

JEETU AND Gul Lalchandani of Kamal Traders have gone ethnic in their summer collection being displayed at the newly expanded showroom at Mahankali, Secunderabad. A rendering of all things Indian, contemporary yet classic, the collection emerges from a palette of pure colours. Kamal Traders have, in a very short span of time, made a strong signature stamp of ensembles that might be ethereal in their disposition but they feature high on the wearability quotient as well.

Jeetu says, "We have moved away from the fuss of unreal fashion. At the end of the day I want my creations to sell to real women who look for elegant simplicity in the fabrics." His new designs in cottons and bandhinis borrow from the abha kurta and the angarakha cut. The happy colour palette, vivacious designs and traditional rendering give the line its trademark grace.

Embroidery, which is their forte, emerges this season as well and not only in thread. Resham ke taar, a technique their embroiderers have mastered over the years, gold aari work with a dash of dabka, and zardozi, crystal and beads are thrown in to complement the fine chain stitch.

What makes the line special is the traditional cuts and style that he couples with aari work -- juxtaposing them on fine brocades (they are back with a bang) or the intricate tie and dyes which are a big hit in summers.

The shapes are fluid yet tailored in the ready-mades. Jeetu says, "one has to take the Indian tunic beyond its tented structure and create traditional fluid forms." Many things from the sky, earth and weather to traditionalism inspire the collection.

The emphasis besides embroidery is on texture treatment on screen prints and blocks. Believing in the maxim, "Anything that we inherited is ours," Jeetu believes Indian women look their best in ensembles that they can relate to culturally.

Besides natural fabrics, the store also has a large collection in tissues, brocades crepes and net. This time round Jeetu has dipped into time to rediscover the heritage that we have lost to commercialism.

RATNA G. CHOTRANI

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