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Introduction

COME GET high on Thai, with me. Trip out on the old favourites and the brand new menu which starts from tomorrow. Fragrant Thailand breathes right here in Chennai. This way please — go past the deft vegetable carving lady and into an elegant, marble-floored, light filled 4000 sq.ft. bungalow. The wooden tables gleam, the glass partitioned shelves are thoughtfully done up with priceless pieces of Royal porcelain called "Benjarong" and that's how this year-and-a-half old restaurant gets its name.

I've always believed that chef-owned restaurants almost always have an edge over other restaurants. Benjarong, once again proves my point. Chef Regi Mathew, ex Taj, is the chef CEO and wields his work magic very effectively. He's trained under most of the chefs in Thailand, whose restaurants I have been fortunate enough to eat at. Be it Chef David Thompson, Chef Chuchada or the Shangri la Hotel. All these years of training and work at the Paradise Island at Bangalore's West End, shines through. You're sure to enjoy almost everything you order from his menu. Luxuriate in the rich aromas of spices, the astringency of lemon grass, the anise-like pungency of Thai basil, the piquancy of chillies and the gentle smoothness of coconut milk. I am recommending dishes without using their Thai names, which in any case one can't pronounce or remember.

Ask for the old favourites — the subtly fragrant fish with basil and chillies (Rs.188), the delightfully tangy papaya salad (Rs.98) even the unusual raw mango salad (Rs.98) go for the chicken wrapped and infused with the flavour of the pandanus leaves (Rs.138) and whatever you do wind up with the divine jackfruit sankhaya (Rs.78). You'll look at jackfruit with new respect; you'll never believe that this subtle, creamy, silken steamed delight is made with jackfruit and coconut milk! Do ask for Chef Mathew's new menu from tomorrow and check out the fish done in a tri-flavoured sauce, which is sweet, spicy and sour (Rs. 188). Even the tofu with snow peas and yellow bean sauce (Rs.138) is worth a try. Veggies have a good choice.

For all those slim of wallet but refined of palate, here's Chef Mathew's offering of a value lunch "Aham Glang Wahn" (Rs. 158 to178) which has a one dish meal, soup and dessert. My compliments to the chef!

P.S. I insist that you must try the complimentary "Mien Khum" which is served on your table. It is the Thai version of our Indian Paan. Wrap in the crisp lettuce leaf, the coconut flakes, chilli pieces, lime shoots, chopped onions, roasted coconut and pop the "paan" right into your month! Titillation at its most flavoursome!

Benjarong, 146, TTK Road, Alwarpet, Chennai' Ph: 4322640/ 7110061 Open 12-30 to 2-45 p.m. and 7-30 to 11-45 p.m. Credit cards accepted, valet parking. Average cost per meal, per head Rs.350. New menu starts on August 1.

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