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Chennai
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The world on a platter
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Myriad flavours from across the seas have reached Chennai, much to the delight of food connoisseurs. SANGEETH KURIAN goes on a culinary cruise of speciality restaurants in the city.
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"Some people have a foolish way of not minding or pretending not to mind, what they eat... For I look upon it, that he who does not mind his belly, will hardly mind anything else."- Dr. Samuel Johnson.
The remark made by the late English writer is fast becoming a misnomer for the citizens of Chennai. For of late, they too have started paying heed to their bellies, pampering it with an array of appetising and healthy food from across the globe.
From Mexican Tortillas to Japanese Sashimi, the land of idly and sambar today offers an impressive selection of foreign flavours and cuisines. (Interestingly, most of the speciality restaurants have come up in the last couple of years.) So what is it that makes the city a hot spot for culinary globalisation?
On the one hand it can be attributed to what might be called `diasporic' geographies or the scattering of people and culture. Since food is a central component of culture, the globalisation of a particular country's cuisine can be linked to the migration of its population who crave for an identity-affirming desire for a taste of home. This argument is valid, particularly in respect to the Korean and Japanese restaurants in the city, where a lion's share of its customers are the nationals belonging to these countries. "Ninety per cent of our customers are the Koreans working in consulates and multinational companies," says Joe Sang Hyun-director and chef, Arirang (ph: 28233739/28272855), a Korean restaurant.
Similarly at Dalhia (ph: 28265240/52138070), a Japanese restaurant, which calls itself `Mini Japan' the customers are predominantly Japanese. There is also a well-equipped library to create a cosy atmosphere for its clients. "Our customers treat this restaurant as a home away from home," says Revathi Nagasami, director.
Another aspect of culinary globalisation is the growing `Disposable Income Groups' (DIG's) who have become experimental in terms of what they eat. It is these DIG's who are the mainstay of most of the speciality restaurants. "Seventy per cent of our customers are the DIG's who have become adventurous in their food habits. They want to try something different whenever they dine out. They also travel a lot and hence are more aware about the various cuisines of the world. The remaining 30 per cent are only the foreign clients," says Mahadevan, director, Oriental Inn, who owns a Thai and Mexican joint in his chain of restaurants.
His `Benjarong (ph: 24322640/52110061),' a Thai speciality restaurant located on T.T.K. Road prides itself of serving `authentic' food since 2001. "All our dishes on the menu has been standardised in Thailand after considerable research, so we don't alter or compromise its authenticity much," says Reji Mathew, CEO and chef. " For instance, if a customer wants `Tomyam Soup' without lemon grass, instead of modifying the soup, we will give him/her something, which doesn't have that ingredient," he says.
Similarly at `Don Pepe (28114941),' the Mexican restaurant, the dilution of authenticity is limited to toning up and down of the spices or aroma. "You cannot expect some of the basic ingredients to be replaced to suit the Indian palate," says Mahadevan.
For Ciro Cattaneao, an Italian chef and his wife Tania Lea, it was their love for India and beaches that persuaded them to choose Chennai as their land of adoption. "And being a chef, I decided to give the citizens a `real' taste of my home land, which they have not experienced." His `Bella Ciao' (ph: 24511130) started in 1998 is spread across half an acre on the idyllic shores of Valmiki Nagar Beach, Kottivakkam and is an ideal get away spot for weekenders. The joint also has the reputation of being the `first and genuine Italian restaurant' in the city.
The latest entrant into the list is the seven month old `Cedars' (ph: 55855111/24475073) which specialises in Lebanese cuisine apart from offering an array of Mediterranean flavours from Dubai, Morocco, Spain, France and Greece. The restaurant located on Gandhi Mandapam Road had a soft launch with invited guests for a week, before opening to the public. "The idea was to get the feed back and rectify the problematic areas," says Siddarth Deepak, partner and a graduate from the Indian Institute of Hotel Management. "We also undertook classes and tasting sessions in order to familiarise the staff with Lebanese cuisine." And like most of the restaurants `Cedars' too imports some of its key ingredients such as Olive oil, Tahina (sesame paste), Lebanese coffee and spice powders.
Yet another feature of speciality restaurants is the meticulous care given in creating the `right ambience' to bring out the concept of the theme to its guests. The décor, cutlery, table setting, method and style of preparation etc are all a part of this.
If it is the low seating arrangements and traditional Japanese knick-knacks such as Noren (curtain), screens and fans that are the attractions at Dalhia, in Benjarong, the interiors create a golden amber effect, representative of the country. "We have also imported artefacts and cutleries embossed with the figure of Tepanom (Thai goddess of dance) from Thailand," says Mathew.
At Cedars, earthy hues like blue and yellow dominate. There are also a number of photographs depicting Mediterranean country life on the walls.
Coming on to the method and style of preparation, the Koreans love their dishes to be cooked right in front of them, so there are imported tables with inbuilt gas stove for the customers, while the Japanese like to taste their food natural. Sashimi (sliced raw fish) with Wasabi (horse raddish) is an in-house speciality of Dalhia. There are also Italian Pizzas and Mediterranean Kuboos baked in specially designed ovens at Bella Ciao and Cedars. So give your tongue a holiday and treat yourself to some of the best meals in the world — all without setting foot outside the city.
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