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Magic of the Middle East

Milad Antoun serves millionaires, actors, politicians and Presidents. Shonali Muthalaly meets the celebrated Egyptian chef

CREATIVE TOUCH TO CUISINE Chef Milad Antoun PHOTO: R. RAGU

"Before coming here I gave John Travolta dinner," shrugs Milad Antoun, celebrated Egyptian Chef from the Ritz Carlton, Bahrain. Millionaires, actors, politicians, Presidents... . Antoun's had them all at his table, tearing into his designer kebabs with unfailing regularity. Which could explain why he's so blasé about celebrities. The Travolta story, for instance, is stopped short when he excitedly starts describing the recipe for Kabsa rice, which he served the actor. For, Chef Antoun, on the other hand, is never blasé about food.

Brought up in Cairo watching his mother and grandmother make traditional Egyptian food, he seemed to have stumbled into the hotel industry — an industry he later clearly grew to love — by accident. "When young, I just wanted to work. To help my family," he says, in a delightfully lilting accent. He ended up in a school in Cairo, training to be a chef.

"Our school had a scheme," he states, as waiters at 601, The Park, begin to load the table with his fragrant lamb chops and juicy kebabs. "The person who came first and second was sent to Switzerland for free." He adds a little bashfully, "I came second."

So he got to study in Switzerland. "Which is otherwise very, very expensive." Although studying in such a ritzy school did teach Chef Antoun all the frills and flourishes of stylish French, Italian and other schools of cooking (he now specialises in Mediterranean and Mid Eastern food) fricassée didn't lure him the way falafel did.

"My favourite dish is Middle Eastern," he declares firmly. "My own flavours."

Not a bad choice actually. Especially now, when the food of the Middle East ("That includes Turkey, Syria, Lebanon, Bahrain... well, the entire Gulf") is spreading its hummus-laden fingers all over the world. "In the Middle East, actually each region has its distinct food," says Chef Antoun. "But now it all comes under one category, and whether you are in Egypt or Syria, you can get the same food... something like what's happening in India with North Indian and South Indian food."

Mid Eastern food today includes the best of every Middle Eastern country. So it has fascinating variety: mezze (hot and cold starters), meaty kebabs, cloyingly sweet desserts like baklava and basboosa, and — their most famous product — the shawarma, consisting of soft pita bread encasing succulent meat shaved off a hunk roasted patiently on a vertical spit.

"The food has strong flavours," says Chef Antoun. "It's not like Indian food... But it's near." That's evident in the spread he's prepared for lunch. The kibbeh, made with minced lamb and stuffed with spices is excellent, laced with just enough flavour to be exotic without moving away from the Indian comfort zone.

"Meats too are like what Indians eat: mutton, lamb." And camel? "Ah, camel is eaten only by the top VVIPs," he exclaims, throwing his hands in the air. "It's very expensive. And not easy to get." He continues, "You know the top part? (The hump) That's the only bit that can be eaten... all the rest — like the legs — they're very strong, and tough."

Vegetarian variety

There's no camel at 601, but there is a significant quantity of seductive vegetarian food, notably his pastilla, which is light, flaky phyllo pastry stuffed with bright grilled vegetables and subtly spiced mashed potatoes. "I make this food creative," he grins, "I'm the first chef to do this."

Chef Antoun's speciality, in fact, is adding twists and twirls to traditional Mid Eastern food, making it more stylish, balanced and wholesome. "The Arabs also want more healthy food now. More vegetables, more cooking with olive oil." Pointing at the pastilla, he continues, "My grandmother and mother made it the old fashioned way... rolling out dough, and pressing the stuffing between two flat breads." Chef Antoun, on the other hand, sheaths the mixture in pastry, ingeniously using fresh, uncooked spinach leaves as a wrap to ensure the crust stays crisp. "Then I just bake, slice and serve it with a sauce."

(Chef Milad Antoun will be cooking at The Park's `Mid Eastern Food Festival,' which is on for dinner at 601 till February 26. Call 42144000 for reservations.)

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