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Tradition’s modern spin

Handloom saris get a makeover, thanks to design inputs from NID

Designer touch One of the saris on display

The traditional handlooms of Tamil Nadu have received a makeover. With some help from the National Institute of Design in Ahmedabad, weavers from six locations in the State have come out with a new range of cotton and silk saris, stoles, shirt pieces and home textiles in cutting-edge colour combinations and styles, which are on display at an exhibition-cum-sale at Lalit Kala Akademi.

“This is a design intervention by the Department of Handlooms and Textiles,” says M.R. Mohan, Commissioner of Handlooms and Textiles. “We wanted to provide the weavers with a competitive edge so that they could improve their wages.”

To do so, a team from NID was roped in two years ago to study the products of the weavers of Cuddalore, Tiruchi, Thirubhuvanam, Vilandai, Kurinjipadi and Gudiyatham — their heritage value, the indigenous techniques used, the socio-economic culture of the weaving families — as well as to do surveys of what their customers were looking for. At the end of it, they came up with a design package which they helped the weavers implement.

“What we wanted to do was enhance the existing product range, and fine tune quality control, use better yarn and dyes, etc.,” says Priya Mani, design consultant on the project.

This cluster of weavers was chosen for the project because although they are very skilled, their products lacked sufficient innovation to compete in the market. So, the designs have been revamped while ensuring that their traditional flavour remains. In some cases, it is by the introduction of more colour or embroidery into saris that are traditionally plain. Thirubhuvanam silk saris are traditionally monotone or with self borders, but can be seen at the exhibition with, for example, a delicate sunset double-tone and contrast border. Or Tiruchi Woraiyur cotton saris can be seen with pretty thread work in the pallu.

“We are targeting the younger generation, and have created designs that will appeal to working women,” says Priya.

Other innovations are a little more radical. For example, the technique of lungi weavers of Gudiyatham has been used to create shirt fabrics in attractive colour combinations, thereby adding to the existing product line and the income of these weavers.

The 1,500 designs developed will be on display at the Akademi until May 14.

DIVYA KUMAR

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