Date:30/12/2004 URL: http://www.thehindubusinessline.com/2004/12/30/stories/2004123001611700.htm

Back Tsunami keeps tourists at bay at Mahabalipuram

R. Balaji
N. Ramakrishnan

Workers clearing the mud and silt left behind by the tsunami. The shore temple, a major tourist attraction at Mahabalipuram, has been closed to the public for the last three days. — Bijoy Ghosh

Chennai , Dec. 29

THE shore temple at Mahabalipuram, which has weathered many a storm, is deserted.

On any other day, it would have been milling with tourists, domestic and foreign, gypsies hawking beads and beggars. The gates to the majestic protected monument are barred. A cardboard notice hangs from the gates saying that the monument is closed for renovation. A lone guard explains in Hindi that restoration work is on after Sunday's Tsunami.

WHEN TSUNAMI TURNED A TOURIST: More than 80 shops near the shore temple in Mahabalipuram selling a range of items -- soft drinks, light eats and trinkets - were destroyed by Sunday's tsunami. Three days after the tragedy, the shopkeepers are yet to come to terms with their fate as they hope the administration will compensate them adequately to restart their business. — Bijoy Ghosh

On the seaward side of the temple, waves lash the boulders and spray water. The beach itself is deserted. Not a tourist is in sight as the morning sun beats down. In the temple, a handful of workers are shovelling away the sand and silt deposited by the fast-moving sheet of seawater.

A couple of foreign tourists turn away disappointed as they are told that the monument is closed to the public. They were hoping that they would be able to admire the 1000-year-old monument from up close.

Thankfully, the sculptural marvel created by the Pallava kings has not suffered serious damage. But the surrounding barricade of boulders, over 10 - 15 ft in height, was not enough to stop the rushing wave that had raced more than 500 metres inland and left over 3 feet of silt. Workers expect that it could take several days before the temple is ready for viewing. However, the Archaeological Survey of India, which is responsible for maintaining the monument, hopes to open it again to public tomorrow.

Of the more than 100 shops lining one side of the Pallava monument, not one is open. They look ransacked, wooden shutters hang by the hinges, shelves are bare, and a few shop keepers sift through the debris hoping to salvage whatever possible. The narrow lane that gives access to the beach beyond the row of shops is littered with debris deposited by the wave.

Mr Shahul Hameed, who owns a shop near the tourist spot, recalls that the day had begun like any other. Weekends bring in more than the usual numbers of visitors and he was looking forward to a busy day. He had opened shop at 7 that morning, as he had done everyday for years, but two hours later he had lost everything to the sea.

Mr D. Desingh, vice-president of the seashells and beads traders association, says that the shopkeepers had got the first inkling of the disaster when a group of terror stricken boys ran screaming up the narrow lane, chased by a wall of sea water. "There was no time to think. We just panicked. I managed to throw some kids over the shore temple's fence on to the high ground," he said. The shops sell a variety of items - soft drinks, light eats and trinkets.

In seconds they were chest deep in water, fighting to get away from the clutches of the Tsunami. More than 80 shops were stripped bare by the receding waters of the sea. At least two of the shopkeepers were dragged away by the receding waters, he said.

A short ride into the town, to the other venues - the five rathas and the light house - show them equally bereft of tourists, except for a few.

Marked by their absence is the usual swarm of gypsies who pester tourists, begging or trying to sell beads and other handicrafts.

The grounds of the tiger caves, just outside Mahabalipuram, are slushy. A pond of stagnating seawater reflects the sculptures that await the tourists. Nearby, the beach resorts, where it would be usual to see international tourists lazing around, are as deserted.

The 55-km drive from Chennai along the East Coast Road to Mahabalipuram itself serves as an indicator of the situation at the popular resort town.

It is normal to see tourists speeding along this route lined with entertainment parks, hotels, beach resorts and a crocodile bank. Traffic is sparse and the entertainment parks that are opening three days after the sea raged into their premises, see few visitors. Some of these larger parks get about 500 visitors each paying about Rs 200 - 300 entrance fee. But on this day there are just a few straggling in.

On a normal working day, at least 10,000 vehicles use the East Coast Road. But, now the traffic is down to 60 per cent of that.

The crocodile bank, located on a high ground, was not badly affected, according to those in the crocodile bank. It too is opening to visitors after a three-day break.

Along the shoreline, the fishermen hamlets are deserted as they have shifted closer to the road, which is at an elevated level.

Plastic sheets, catamaran sails and pieces of tarpaulin provide meagre shelter.