Our Bureau

Chennai , Feb. 27

THE garment industry in Tamil Nadu, which manufactures for some of the leading brands in the world, should build its own brands, said Mr A. Elangovan, Tamil Nadu Textiles Secretary.

Addressing a seminar on `Globalisation: Technical challenges in the Indian textile industry' organised by the Indo-German Chamber of Commerce and Jaya Engineering College, he said that a weak link in the textile chain was the non-availability of good quality cotton. Tamil Nadu requires 65 lakh bales of cotton but produces only 3.5 lakh bales. The rest comes from other States. There is a need to support the farmer to increase cotton cultivation.

Mr Elangovan said that in its role as a facilitator, the Government has been encouraging contract cotton farming and several thousands of acres are available to those who are interested in cultivation, he said.

Quoting an ICRA study commissioned by the Indian Cotton Mills Association, Mr Manikam Ramaswami, Chairman, Loyal Textile Mills Ltd, said that in the next five to six years the textile industry would generate almost 1.25 crore jobs. The biggest challenge that theindustry would face is one of training and retaining staff.

In the last six to seven months there has been a spurt of activity in the textile industry. He said that the worrying factor was whether this was in the short-term. Companies will have to plan for more sustained and long-term growth. They would have to implement information technology systems, upgrade technology and training programmes.

Mr Ramaswami said that companies would have to make work environment conducive and the culture in the work place should be transparent.

To cope with competition from countries such as China, organisations should have a cultural change and think of working three shifts. Compliance is another important aspect, Mr Ramaswami said, that has to be taken into account. Indian companies must comply with quality and labour norms to be relevant in the global market otherwise they would have to face non-tariff barriers.

Companies in the processing sector should opt for technologies that require less water than what is currently in use. For instance, instead of using 100 litres to process one kg of fabric, the newer technology, which requires just 25 litres, should be used.

Mr Ramaswami said that the large garment parks that are coming up have an inherent danger attached to them. Since the garment industry is a labour-intensive one, about 50,000 textile workers would be required for these units. This would lead to an influx of workers from other parts and would lead to the creation of slums. The better option would be to distribute garment manufacture around mid-sized towns and have smaller parks with 5,000 to 10,000, he added.

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