Date:14/04/2008 URL: http://www.thehindu.com/2008/04/14/stories/2008041457060300.htm

Andhra Pradesh

On a mission to revive traditional Banjara attire

S. Harpal Singh

Revival mode: Banjara women of Khanapur village making the traditional bridal wear for a wedding in the community

KHANAPUR (ADILABAD DT.): The ornate and colourful attire of banjara women will not be lost completely to modernity thanks to an effort initiated by senior women of the community from Khanapur village in Adilabad mandal. They are making the traditional accessories given to brides during the ‘bidai’ (send off) by respective parents for use in the new household. “As the younger generation prefers the more functional Punjabi suits or sarees the traditional ghaghra-choli is on the way out. By gifting them the different components of the traditional dress we can at least make them keep in touch with the past”, observed Rathod Meena Devi.

She is one among the women who is making the gouno, phulia, gajra, titri and garatani for her daughter Sushma to carry along after her marriage. All these accessories will form part of the bridal wear of Sushma and other girls in the village.

Explaining the importance of different items used in day to day life Jadhav Sevantibai said the phulia consists of a round thick piece made of thread and gouno a square mirror embedded cloth piece in different colours. The rounded piece is placed on the head for a water pot to rest and the gouno is used to cover the mouth of the pot.

“The intricate design of phulia only serves to show its importance in our lives in the past. Fetching drinking water from long distances had been a daily chore for Lambada women in the past. Though it may not be useful to the present generation, it will help them remember the past whenever they look at it”, said Sevantibai.

Besides using pieces of mirror and cloth of different colours for making the embroidered accessories, cowrie shells, ersatz pearls and beads are also used profusely for decoration. The heavy bracelet called gajra is made of large brass beads and is worn by the bride during the wedding ceremony. The garatani or anklet is made of beads of various colours and is also worn on important occasion besides the wedding.