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River story
The trim and graceful MS Artistry, the river ship of Avalon Waterways, was our gateway to the Danube, the open watery highway and the threshold of our Eastern Europe adventure, swathed in peace yet evocative of an often tortured past. Over a period o
f 12 days, we felt like we were suspended in the past tense, as we cruised down a part of Europe’s second longest river. Our Black Sea Discovery cruise started in Budapest, Hungary, and ended in Bucharest, Romania, and even the names of the ports of call sizzled with intrigue. We had never heard of Kalocsa, Novi Sad, Veliko Tarnovo, Arbanassi... Were these the figment of a cruise director’s imagination? No, they were for real, enchanting cities, charming hamlets and vintage towns that swept us away with their comely looks and extraordinary past full of conflict and resolution, conquest and surrender. We met the MS Artistry in Budapest, Hungary, after we had spent two nights in this, the “coolest” of European capitals. Budapest turned out to be a city inclined to grand gestures — seven beautifully wrought bridges humped over the Danube, connecting ancient Buda with the more modern Pest; the spires of cathedrals, the bulbous domes of Orthodox churches, the grand hilltop castle complex called the Fishermen’s Bastion ... they defined the skyline with a certain delicacy.
That evening the MS Artistry set sail with its complement of young and old passengers who had opted for a river cruise, rightly believing that sailing down a river is rife with mystery, for, each day brings with it the promise of adventure. After a fulfilling day, we would sit on the Sun Deck in the late afternoon and watch the world go by along the Danube, ever mercurial but flowing with certitude to its destination. Sometimes a castle straddled a hilltop or a monumental fortress glowered at us from the opposite bank; oft times there were just lonely reed-fringed banks while the hinterland would be carpeted with sun-blistered fields that unfolded like a green carpet. The following day, Kalocsa beckoned. Here Avalon Waterways sprang one of its many surprises on its passengers. As we settled on the wooden pews of the Kalocsa Cathedral, celestial music rippled around us and filled the high vaulted ceiling. It was a Bach symphony and an award-winning organist had been invited to perform just for us! This was a melodious introduction to the sights and sounds of Kalocsa, a charming town established in 1009 where paprika, the red Mexican hot pepper, is cultivated. Back on the ship we were welcomed like heroes returning from battle. Staff handed us chilled drinks and later our sprightly cruise director Gusta briefed us on the next day’s excursions. When Happy Hour was announced, we nursed a drink and watched a soft palette of post-sunset colours veil the Danube. This was in a way our favourite hour which we would spend on the Sun Deck or in the lounge with the Danube all around us. The river ennobled the landscape; the play of light on her rippling surface, her dark unknowable depths and the strategic role she played in the history of all the countries (Hungary, Serbia, Bulgaria and Romania) we visited made her a fascinating liquid avenue.
At every port, foreign aromas and sounds would drift from the shore on damp breezes and the ship would disgorge its load of dazzled adventurers brimming with expectations of seeing something new every day. Soon we settled into a comfortable rhythm of going ashore for sightseeing in the day, and returning at dusk to shipboard comfort... chatting with other guests in the lounge as staff pampered and cosseted us prior to a gourmet dinner in the glass-walled restaurant; and finally sleeping in our luxurious staterooms, knowing that the eternal river was just an arm’s length away. The days passed in a kaleidoscope of grand cities and countries, each of which left an indelible mark. Novi Sad, Serbia, announced itself with its muscled fortress that loomed on a bank of the Danube the next morning. On the other bank, the pretty town of Novi Sad ticked to a Mediterranean pace. But it was Belgrade, with its aura of sadness and hope, of beauty salvaged from the ashes of multiple conflicts, that pulled at our heart strings. Razed to the ground over 30 times, bombed in the two world wars and later by NATO forces for its acts of ethnic cleansing, this spunky city reminded us of a Sumo wrestler who refused to be put down. Despite its tragic history, Belgrade is infused with a life-affirming spirit. And in this city, rated as one of the safest in Europe, the Cathedral of St. Sava, the world’s largest Orthodox church, is an evocative symbol. The building of the awesome cathedral commenced in the early 20th century and is expected to be completed in 2025! Yes, there was more… the awesome sight of the snarling gorge called Iron Gates, 84 miles long, separating the European Alps in the northwest from the Carpathian mountains in the southeast; an onboard folklore show, a funny slap stick performance by the crew… The days that followed were a slide show of sun-drenched local life and sights in towns with intriguing names like Svistov, Veliko Tarnovo, Arbanassi and Varna on the Black Sea in Buglaria. Our last port was Oltenita from where Bucharest, Romania’s lively capital, was a short drive away.
When we parted ways with our new-found friends in Bucharest, we felt the first pangs of separation. Strangers had become friends and bonds forged on this intimate little river boat could not be severed easily. Yes, we were no longer just ships that passed in the night.
Fact File
An Eastern European cruise takes in a wide swathe of cities and destinations in this relatively unknown part of the Continent. (Avalon Waterways www.avalonwaterways.in; email: india@globusandcosmos.com has some great options across the Continent.) The best part of a cruise is that it is all inclusive: one does not have to pack and unpack or check into a different hotel each day; there are no bumpy and cramped-in-your-seat road transfers and yet you get to see a different destination every day, enjoy gourmet cuisine and regional wines and entertainment is also thrown in.
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From Budapest to Bucharest, cruising along the Danube, swollen with the secrets of history and exotic ports of call…
A visual feast: (Clockwise from top) The Parliament House in Budapest; Domes of an Orthodox church at Varna on the Black Sea; A church at Belgrade and the face of an ancient warrior carved on a rock face en route.
