Mirroring the times

PHOTO: MURALI KUMAR K.

MIXING THE CONVENTIONAL AND CONTEMPORARY Julie Kagti’s line is for women not dictated by social norms

Julie Kagti grew up in Assam and attended boarding school at Loreto Convent, Shillong. The textile designer used to help her grandmother weave. “Usually in the North East, it is the women who weave. They do it with a small loom, which produces intricate weaves.”

Then Julie went to Bombay to study. “From a protected environment were you know people around you, had fixed timings and pocket money, I was now exposed to a world where there were single mothers and people juggling four jobs.” “Sophia Polytechnic offered a range of possibilities with their courses in media, communication design, tourism and travel. So I enrolled in their three-year textile design course out of curiosity more than anything else. And that was the first time I learned to draw!”

Julie then worked for different fabric manufacturing and export houses. “It was a good experience as that is where I learnt the value of discipline.” She found that though the techniques were new, they were using the same colours and same shades for the market. “All the inputs and colours came from the West.” For someone who wanted to be independent, it was important for Julie to build a sense of time and business acumen through discipline.

Julie believes in using traditional techniques for contemporary styles. “Design comes from our sense of time and belonging. We belong in an age of pop culture and multiplexes. I design for women in the 25 to 60 age bracket, who have a sense of history and empathise with old traditions.” Showing a piece of appliqué work on a top — innerwear, Julie feels that humour is a good way to confront attitudes. So when it comes to the Pink Chaddi campaign which was held in February this year, Julie feels that it was an immediate reaction to the state of events. “Society is very laidback and complacent, and the Pink Chaddi campaign was reactive, not proactive.”

In 2000, she was part of the Designers’ Guild where she designed scarves and bags and then retailed at Cinnamon in ’02. “I always knew I wanted to work with women, handloom and in a small space.” When she started Sutra, Julie started off with one tailor and one weaver. Designing clothes for large-sized women is important in the pattern and design. She also feels that young wearers also look for clothes that are beautiful and fun — with a touch of motifs and colour. She brought in shibori, the Japanese tie and dye method of resist dyeing. She has worked with NGOs like Kishkinda Trust in Hampi and educational institutions.

In ’06, Julie designed a collection for the Lakme Fashion Week. “It was a collection of stoles, skirts, tops and saris. It is very important at a fashion show to give people a feel of your design palette.”

It was because Julie grew up in the North East that she has a strong sense of texture. She also feels colour plays a strong role. “Colour is show-stopping, so is a lack of colour.”

Julie feels she designs indigenous clothes for women who are not dictated by social norms. “I rarely find a woman who is defined by mindsets. My aesthetics work into the clothes I design, which also mirror a sense of responsibility and decorum.” Her store is at Hatworks Boulevard, No. 32 Cunningham Road. Visit www.knotsoncloth.com

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